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Need Brake Bleeding Help

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could be - but IIRC the wheel cylinders will push out and the brakes won't stop the car - but they shouldn't take more fluid. Still, never hurts to adjust the drums before you bleed the brakes. Did you replace the hoses? Are the seated properly? I chased an issue with a soft clutch for an entire season before I realized the tolerances on the ends of my new clutch line were so bad they weren't sealing. The increasing problem with parts made by jobbers.
 
JPSmit said:
could be - but IIRC the wheel cylinders will push out and the brakes won't stop the car - but they shouldn't take more fluid. Still, never hurts to adjust the drums before you bleed the brakes. Did you replace the hoses? Are the seated properly? I chased an issue with a soft clutch for an entire season before I realized the tolerances on the ends of my new clutch line were so bad they weren't sealing. The increasing problem with parts made by jobbers.
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Let me start from the begining. Previous owner said he replaced Master Cylinder, Front and Rear Shoes, Front and Rear Wheel cylinders. Said he couldn't get a brake pedal. I discovered metal lines going to rear cylinders were on top (bleeder on bottom) I corrected that, then discovered Drivers front was missing the metal line connecting both cylinders. Replaced missing brake line. Then I discovered that he had put both top shoes on driver rear and both bottom shoes on Passenger side. And in order to get the pass. side drum on he shoved the adjuster over in a corner.
 
Oh my! how are the hoses are they new?
 
BobHaskell said:
One can close off the rear brakes by clamping the rubber hose that feeds the hard lines on the rear axle. If he has good pedal with the rubber hose pinched close, then the problem ought to be somewhere with the rear brakes. Either too much motion (shoes out of adjustment) or a leak.
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That's what I guessed but couldn't be sure. Typically, pumping the pedal won't help with air in the system. You will still have a spongy pedal. And I still think a hard pedal that slowly leaks down (10 seconds) indicates a leak somewhere in the system, either internal or external. I can think of some exotic circumstances but probably not worthy of mention.
 
Bigomudders! said:
Let me start from the begining. Previous owner said he replaced Master Cylinder, Front and Rear Shoes, Front and Rear Wheel cylinders. Said he couldn't get a brake pedal. I discovered metal lines going to rear cylinders were on top (bleeder on bottom) I corrected that, then discovered Drivers front was missing the metal line connecting both cylinders. Replaced missing brake line. Then I discovered that he had put both top shoes on driver rear and both bottom shoes on Passenger side. And in order to get the pass. side drum on he shoved the adjuster over in a corner.
Click to expand...
Your PO needed supervision.
 
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