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OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Or heat and dump ice water on it? I may need to do that with a spot in the center of the hood to shrink the metal.
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Need an opinion - Leave alone or straighten fender
- Thread starter Jim_Gruber
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Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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MAPP won't get hot enough (and the heat won't be concentrated). I was going to suggest some shrinking, but it order to do it you need an acetylene torch and small tip.
OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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I'll try tonight using multiple C-Clamps with a backing plate to spread the load pulling against a 2 x 2 placed across the top of the wheel well. That way I can pull curve up against the 2 x 2 without risking going too far and tweaking it the other way. I don't have far to tweak it and can probably make it better so less Bondo will be needed.
I've seen some interesting metal shrinking done with a torch. I may need to do some Google Work and get some ideas on the large pizza sized spot in the center of the bonnet. DPO had filled with copious amounts of Bondo which I have sanded out. I can get behind and push it out but returns to indented position when pressure is released. Not a big dent but would probably hold water if parked on level surface. Definitely a candidate for some metal shrinking.
I've seen some interesting metal shrinking done with a torch. I may need to do some Google Work and get some ideas on the large pizza sized spot in the center of the bonnet. DPO had filled with copious amounts of Bondo which I have sanded out. I can get behind and push it out but returns to indented position when pressure is released. Not a big dent but would probably hold water if parked on level surface. Definitely a candidate for some metal shrinking.
OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Trevor,
Googling Metal Shrinking presents all sorts of interesting possibilities on fixing. Looks like anything that can provide extreme temperature changes can work to shrink the metal. Everything from oxy torch and water to a hairdryer and Freeze It in a can can be used. I'm thinking of my heat gun used in an ever decreasing arc on the center of the hood lollowed up by a can of Liquid Freeze following the same arc. I see how that could work for a dent in a flat panel very easily. Since there is paint and bondo on the hood and I've already tried to burn up Bugsy once this week already I think I'll try non flammable solutions first.
For the fender however, I think pulling it will need to suffice.
Googling Metal Shrinking presents all sorts of interesting possibilities on fixing. Looks like anything that can provide extreme temperature changes can work to shrink the metal. Everything from oxy torch and water to a hairdryer and Freeze It in a can can be used. I'm thinking of my heat gun used in an ever decreasing arc on the center of the hood lollowed up by a can of Liquid Freeze following the same arc. I see how that could work for a dent in a flat panel very easily. Since there is paint and bondo on the hood and I've already tried to burn up Bugsy once this week already I think I'll try non flammable solutions first.
For the fender however, I think pulling it will need to suffice.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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I have used a stainless steel shrinking disc with success on the ugly bug.
OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Would I need to go at it from underneath as bonnet is pushed in? Let me deal with the wheel well tonight and I'll take on the shrinking disc issue tomorrow.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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Pop it out if you want to attack it from the top. You could also do the same with the fender. Beat out, then start shrinking the metal back in place.
OP
Jim_Gruber
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Well I got the fender much straighter. With a bit of bondo it will be unnoticeable. However in my attempt to weld/repair a small tear in the seam/fold of the fenderwell, I managed to make some larger holes with my MIG. Gotta remember to turn on the gas and let it run for a while to purge the lines before attempting to weld anything. DOH!!! Anyway area is now stronger but I've got some holes to fill. Seam/crack is gone and bondo will cover it all.
Did manage to spray bonnet inside and outside with a can of primer. I thought I had things pretty smooth before I started but after paint was dry, I discovered quite a few battle scars I had no idea were there. Gonna be some more metal forming needed before this is ready for paint, Rustoleum BRG to match the rest of Bugsy, but at least I'm out of bare shiny metal. I'll be happy to get the car all one color again.
I need to remember, this car is a driver, it is a mutt with a BE Bonnet on a '68 Sprite. I can spend all Spring wasting days trying to finish paint job or get it done and be out driving. Bugsy will remain a 10 footer but he'll be out having fun and driving. Someday maybe I'll have time and $ to do a Concours Retoration on a BE. For now, Bugsy is such fun to drive I just need to get him back on the road.
Did manage to spray bonnet inside and outside with a can of primer. I thought I had things pretty smooth before I started but after paint was dry, I discovered quite a few battle scars I had no idea were there. Gonna be some more metal forming needed before this is ready for paint, Rustoleum BRG to match the rest of Bugsy, but at least I'm out of bare shiny metal. I'll be happy to get the car all one color again.
I need to remember, this car is a driver, it is a mutt with a BE Bonnet on a '68 Sprite. I can spend all Spring wasting days trying to finish paint job or get it done and be out driving. Bugsy will remain a 10 footer but he'll be out having fun and driving. Someday maybe I'll have time and $ to do a Concours Retoration on a BE. For now, Bugsy is such fun to drive I just need to get him back on the road.
tosoutherncars
Jedi Knight
Offline
Good approach!
Just a quick note, someone had mentioned heating and then rapidly cooling. As I remember, shrinking requires heating to a certain point (soft red?) and then *slowly* cooling. Rapid cooling (quenching) would harden, not shrink. Good idea to do a little research first, as you mentioned.
Just a quick note, someone had mentioned heating and then rapidly cooling. As I remember, shrinking requires heating to a certain point (soft red?) and then *slowly* cooling. Rapid cooling (quenching) would harden, not shrink. Good idea to do a little research first, as you mentioned.
OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
Googling Metal Shrinking will pop up all sorts of YouTube Videos. Everything from a shrinking disc as Trevor mentioned(SS Disk goes in drill and friciton causes metal to get red hot). Demo shows guy working a severely deformed piece of metal using a drill and shrinking disc in a few minutes. Key is temperature change. One method involved strictly using dry ice. Again it's a temperature variance / change thing.
I was able to fix the fender wheel well dent with a couple of C-Clamps, blocks of wood and patience. I was able to pull back into shape in just a few minutes. Not perfect but Bondo will finish the cure.
I was able to fix the fender wheel well dent with a couple of C-Clamps, blocks of wood and patience. I was able to pull back into shape in just a few minutes. Not perfect but Bondo will finish the cure.