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need advice renewing front lower A-arm

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J

James_the_elder

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I am planning to rebuild my front lower A-arms as a winter project after I put my bugeye to bed for the winter. I have two questions. Can I "sweat" the old threaded inserts off of the A-arms using a bottle gas torch, or will I have to use the hotter flame of an oxy/acetylene torch to melt the brazing? Once I get the old threaded inserts off should I braze the new ones back on or can I mix up a big batch of JB weld and use that?
Any advice, opinions or even WA Guesses welcomed.
 
Hi James, gotta be brazed, I'm told they were silver soldered. No JB Weld for that joint.
 
The whole front end rests on that joint, it has to be a good one.
 
Yep, but it needs to be done by a professional. There are a few around that can/will do it but I forget who. I like the new Heratage ones.
 
Kelly, someone else is going to have to follow up on this I just don't remember.
 
I have heard that Apple hyd has the inserts? Yes they come out and can be brazed in. you will need a lower pin to do this as the threads in the two cups must be positioned "In time" with each other.

I have done mine and have had no problems with them.

m
 
You can try Bob Forsblom 614-278-8153 He took over Eric Jone's Riverside garage in Delaware, Ohio. They rebuild a-arms and a lot of other items for BEs and Midgets, you will be happy with their product.
fordsblom@wideopenwest.com.

Mark
 
No welding on any A arms. They sweat in and out and it can be done with a map gas torch but you need to be ready, organized and clean. It been a few years but I got my inserts from apple hydraulics and it was not very expensive. Sweat one side in and then use an old fulcrum pin as a guide and install the other side so it all lines up. I used some of my best silver solder for mine. It does not take much.
 
I had my a-arms rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics. The PO had driven my car to the point where one side was frozen, and it had worn through the inserts, so it was a little more involved in putting new inserts in. Apple did a great job. It cost me $75 a piece not including shipping, but it could be a lot cheaper for what you want done. I know they sell parts too, but I was just not confident enough to work on these pieces since they are so critical for the suspension. You can email them and they always have gotten back to me within 24 hours.
Kevin
 
I think he was around $100 with a core ea
His are nice and they put in a zerk fitting on the closed end. Give Bob a call real nice guy.

Mark
 
Did it myself with parts, I think, from Winners Circle. Sweated the old ones out, fitted new with a good trunnion screw to hold them in alinement. Needed the use of a die grinder to touch up the holes. I brazed them in. If you are planning on keeping the car I suggest drilling and tapping the blind end for a grease zerk and driving a mild steel pin into the trunnion screw. Then you can grease each end and be sure it gets where it is needed.

KA
 
If you weld them in then you can't unweld them back out again next time they need re-doing.

I case you don't understand why, welding melts the base metal, brazing only melts the rod hence it can be melted again to get the inserts out - the same as soldering but at a higher temperature.
 
Let me ask the question that has not been raised. James, why do you want to replace the inserts when the parts that typically wear are the kingpin which is made of a different material than the fulcrum pin. I could see doing it if the kingpin was frozen to the fulcrum pin and the fulcrum pin was rotating in the wishbone rather than the kingpin on the fulcrum pin. Other than that the wear item I've been told is indeed the kingpin.

And if one side is worn that way chances are the otehr side is worn that way as well. I was quoted $150 for a wishbone spring pan with fulcrum pin. For the diffrrence and trouble and the fact that the entire front end rests on this joint I'm thinking replace. You will still need to put in and ream a new kingpin to fit. Plan would be to go with a mpajor suspension kit which includes kingpins and everything that wears out, have kingpins reamed and fitted, and put everything back together.
 
Over the winter my plans are to pull apart, I've been quoted $25 a side to drill out old fulcrum pits and clean up threads by one of the suppliers on this list. I'll purchase new major suspension kit through them and have kingpins reamed to fit. All told with shipping and unless one of my wishbones is crakced and I need to purchase another cost will be between $350-$400 to completely renew the front end.

Yes I can find parts to renew the wishbones but it really comes down to a safety thing. Go new if you can. Again YMMV and some may have other opinions.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]why do you want to replace the inserts when the parts that typically wear are the kingpin which is made of a different material than the fulcrum pin.[/QUOTE]

I disagree with this statement strongly. I once had an opportunity to go through a large pile of used a-arms once, and the inserts were wrecked on every single one.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I could see doing it if the kingpin was frozen to the fulcrum pin and the fulcrum pin was rotating in the wishbone[/QUOTE]

Actually, that is exactly how the suspension is designed to work and that is one reason why the fulcrum pins and inserts wear out.

If you have more money than time... your plan is definitely the way to go Jim. But you are only paying someone else to do exactly what everyone is suggesting in this thread. When you send your a-arms out, they will clean them, R&R the inserts and replace the fulcrum pin. The only part of the job that is not easy to do at home is the reaming of the king pin bearings. I would argue that 9 times out of 10, it is not necessary to replace the king pin bearings... but I know that argument will be quickly shouted down by the rest of the guys on the forum :wink:
 
OK since I have not done before Morris any good tips on getting the old fulcrum pins out. Thought was dunk them in the good old electrolytic rust remover tank for a day or two and then try to take them apart. I'm happy to try and do this myself and avoid sending them out. I just want to get rid ofthe CLUNK every time I hit a sewer lid and the wandering from end above 60 mph.
 
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