need a cutting oil

[Tinster]

Ok, I purchased the Craftsman tap and die kit recommended
by many. Sears does not sell cutting oil. I went to several
different places and they all handed me a can of DW-40 as
cutting oil.

Since I can't seem to find a product specific as named
"cutting oil" is the DW-40 correct? or would I be better
off using extra virgin olive oil? as the medium?

thanks,

d

 

[heliguy]

Well, the olive oil will make it taste better and keep the calories down..........as far as a medium for cutting.............well, stick with a petroleum product. "WD-40" is better than nothing, keeps the cuttings off of what you are doing. Try any of your local auto parts stores, or garages. They must have something that they use. But if WD-40 is all you have, then by all means use it, its better than nothing.........

ps: the product maybe not be called cutting oil, but something like rapid tap, or Met-Kool..............good luck,,

 

[DrEntropy]

Use motor oil or better yet "3-in-1" in a pinch... WD-40 is not much use as a cutting oil. Good enough to clean the taps AFTER use tho. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

 

[Tinster]

Dr- I made the rounds of the auto stores-
they all handed me WD-40.

I am NOT cutting new threads. I am cleaning existing
threads.

d

 

[Tinster]

Will these problems left over from
DPO Pedro EVER end??

d

 

[Tinster]

Dr- I have hydraulic jack oil, would that work?
It is a very light oil.

d

 

[PeterK]

Jack oil would work for your purposes.

WD stands for Water Displacement and is not correct but is great for stopping squeaks on screen door hinges.

Be careful if you are using new sharp taps to clean up old threads. You could damage them, especially true on aluminum. And be certain that you use the correct thread pitch tap.

Now that I've scared you, have fun!

 

[tr6lover]

hey dale, i have worked on many different machine shop projects and the oil that is used as cutting oil is heavy weight oil. something like 20 or 30 weight is good for this. the cutting oil is nothing special and is used only for protecting the tap or die. make sure you occasionally back the tap or die off and clear the swarf off what you are cutting. put the oil in a little squirt container and squirt it on as you go. nothing special really, but wd40 would be a bit thin for this purpose. hope that helps!
Randy

 

[Twosheds]

ps: the product maybe not be called cutting oil, but something like rapid tap, or Met-Kool..............good luck,,

I wish I could remember the name of the cutting oil we used at work...it was something like Tap-Eze...?

I forget!

 

[Tinster]

Thanks all,

I used hydraulic jack oil, four turns forward
and then two turns backward. Slow paced since
I never did this before. I was afraid to mess up.
I used alot of oil, constant bath like cutting marble
or stone

Complete success- both shock mounting bolts now
thread easily.

D

 

[AweMan]

Dale:
I use and like a product called tap magic It can be obtained for several different purposes and types of material
Sorry for NOT replying sooner.
Here is a web page for this product.
https://www.tapmagic.com/

Disclaimer:
I am NOT affiaiated with this company and DO NOT promote its products for personal profit.
Kerry

 

[PeterK]

Funny, the jug I have just says "cutting oil" and came from the local Ace. Can't be that hard to find, even in P.R.

 

[Guest]

Gosh, that makes me nervous, seeing a hardened, fine-thread bolt seated into some soft "devil's metal". I wonder if a backup nut and washer wouldn't hurt. I know some of the holes are blind, but some are through-and-through. At least some ThreadLock Red.

 

[PeterK]

Gosh, that makes me nervous, seeing a hardened, fine-thread bolt seated into some soft "devil's metal". I wonder if a backup nut and washer wouldn't hurt. I know some of the holes are blind, but some are through-and-through. At least some ThreadLock Red.

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif Totally agree about the backup nuts and thread locker. There seems to be an awful lot of metal on the tap for just a cleanup of the threads.

Hey Dale, why did you feel you needed to cut the threads? Were they just clogged with paint?

Make sure when you reassemble that you get the shock bolts good and tight and use loctite and lock nuts on the back of the bolts, just to be sure they don't come lose.

 

[Tinster]

Peter/Bill:

Yup, funny indeed. My local Ace hardware store handed
me a can of WD-40 and told me it was cutting oil.
No problem at all.

DPO Pedro had the near shock side mounted with a thru-bolt,
full thread metric bolt and nut. My new American bolt would
not thread withour major effort. Metal shavings appreared.
So I purchased the Craftsman tap & die set to clean it up.

I installed a 7/16" fine 20 thread, grade #8 bolt with #8
metal lock nut, washer and blue Loctite. All torqued exactly
as per Bentley blue book. Loctite along entire bolt shaft.

As per Bill's suggestion, I installed only metal lock nuts
and Loctite blue on all threads. Everything in today's
rear suspension rebuild torqued as per Bentley blue book.

Thanks for your help, as always. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

Photo of installed shock:

 

[PeterK]

Looks good. Use the same on both bolts.

This has always been a weak mounting point and many people weld a brace across the bracket to "box it in" and add strength.

 

[Gordo]

I use a compound called "Boelube" at work and home. You can purchase it at "Aircraft Spruce.com". Just type in Boelube in the search. Lots of useful items available there. NFI with this company. I buy a lot of my hardware there because of the cadium plating which resists rust and top of the line strength. If you want to use aircraft grade hardware on your car, I would suggest purchasing a "AN Bolt gage". Aircraft bolts are listed by a unique numbering system and the gage will tell you exactly what you need.

Gordo