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Ned a frame photo

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250 with a dual falcon exhaust. Wonder if he's running a later head?
 
THink he said it was a TR6 motor and listed the engine #. But was too much $$ for what I'm seeing. Nice but not that nice.
 
PeterK:

Thanks Buddy!!

You nailed it-
Exactly the photo I am needing.

Greatly appreciated- I could not figure out
the weld tabs coming off the main frame
members. Now they make sense and now I see
where the structural support of the body originates.

thanks again,

d
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]now I see
where the structural support of the body originates [/QUOTE]

Just love it when you talk that engineer talk, Dale!
 
You're welcome.

I have to tackle this job on my 4A (same frame and floors as your 6) and am a little anxious about doing the job. Just remember that the rockers are a structural member. So if you cut them out without bracing first ... well.. you don't want to know. Just brace it - ask here if you get to that point.

PK
 
Thans Peter,

I am maybe 80% completed in stripping paint off the
rocker on the driver's side. So far, nice bright,
shiny metal is coming to light.

My car has very little serious rust except in the driver's
footwell. I am arriving at the conclusion that perhaps
one of the DPOs was a surfer and ocean water with salt
accumpulated under his feet.

I'll keep this thread going as I make progress.
Eastwood would not airship their rust products to
the island so I ground shipped them to a friend in
the States. She did not rewrap the can when she took
it to the post office. The P.O saw the chemical code
and it is now waiting for the next barge to the island.
Maybe a month it will arrive.

d
 
I would agree with Bill that it would be best to use the proper replacement panel if possible.
It is possible to form stiffening ribs in flat sheet metal but it will look terrible. I had this done for a TR6 once but it was a rather nasty car anyway, while your car is now becoming a very nice TR6!
You've come this far...
Simon.
 
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