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ncbugeye project this weekend
- Thread starter ncbugeye
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kcbugeye1275
Jedi Knight
Offline
With my bugeye, I riveted a tan cloth belt simular to an old boy scout belt to the drivers wheel skirt between where the bonnet bumper is and the master cyl. is at in a way I could put a small somewhat soft plastic box to contain a few tools and my insurance papers. Also, under the box, I keep a wrap of end wrenches. This is out of the way in a secure place, I've worried about the insurance papers and the g door operator being out in the open. However, I am curious what will happen if I ever get stopped and explain that I have to open the bonnet to get my ins. papers.
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Go to a boat supply house. Get one of those containers the surfers and small boat guys use, about 4 inch long and an inch or so in dia. completely water proof, some keep matches in them, and could be taped or whatever up behind the dash. I think they come several sizes, cheep and you could use more than one if necessary.
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
Chris, as the DR said, the polarity of a Pertronix is decided at its birth. The negative ground ones use a red wire connection to coil (+) and a black wire goes to coil (-). They get their internal (circuit) ground through the metal mounting plate attached to the advance plate in the dizzy. I've been told that the Positive ground Ignitors use a different color code. What colors are the wires on your Petronix?
OP
ncbugeye
Jedi Warrior
Offline
My Pertronix has a black wire and a black/white wire. The instruction leaflet says:
5. The black wire from the Ignitor must be connected to the ignition switch wire.
6. The black/white wire must be connected to the negative side of the coil.
There is what I can only assume is a ballast resistor, a white ceramic block with two screw terminals, which is screwed to the tub, and the black/white wire is actually wired to it, and thence to the coil.
I feel I am sort of too far down this road to turn back now, and I may have been less than perfectly prepared for the various tasks that arose, so I think I may go back to points so I can get it completed. I think there are at least a couple of sets of points in the parts boxes the PO passed on to me, will have to hunt. Otherwise it's a call to somebody and an overnight delivery, I guess.
5. The black wire from the Ignitor must be connected to the ignition switch wire.
6. The black/white wire must be connected to the negative side of the coil.
There is what I can only assume is a ballast resistor, a white ceramic block with two screw terminals, which is screwed to the tub, and the black/white wire is actually wired to it, and thence to the coil.
I feel I am sort of too far down this road to turn back now, and I may have been less than perfectly prepared for the various tasks that arose, so I think I may go back to points so I can get it completed. I think there are at least a couple of sets of points in the parts boxes the PO passed on to me, will have to hunt. Otherwise it's a call to somebody and an overnight delivery, I guess.
OP
ncbugeye
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I have removed the pos-earth Pertronix, and found a nearly-new points set.
From an earlier (probably 948) distributor in my parts boxes I have filched a miscellaneous condenser and the "terminal and lead" to slide into the bay in the side of the distibutor housing. Are these good?
So could some kind soul tell me what I need to put back in and how. My memory of these things is so distant - I cannot for the life of me remember how to rewire it. A diagram or picture would help.
Bear in mind that ncbugeye has a 1970s Midget 1275 engine.
When I get this working again the pos-earth Pertronix will be available...
From an earlier (probably 948) distributor in my parts boxes I have filched a miscellaneous condenser and the "terminal and lead" to slide into the bay in the side of the distibutor housing. Are these good?
So could some kind soul tell me what I need to put back in and how. My memory of these things is so distant - I cannot for the life of me remember how to rewire it. A diagram or picture would help.
Bear in mind that ncbugeye has a 1970s Midget 1275 engine.
When I get this working again the pos-earth Pertronix will be available...
OP
ncbugeye
Jedi Warrior
Offline
That part I know...
It's the wring INSIDE the distributor I want to get right - all the parts are separate - points, condenser, "terminal and lead" and the distributor with the pertronix stripped out of it. There can't be too many permutations, I just want to be sure it's right.
It's the wring INSIDE the distributor I want to get right - all the parts are separate - points, condenser, "terminal and lead" and the distributor with the pertronix stripped out of it. There can't be too many permutations, I just want to be sure it's right.
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
To refit the points, first position the adjustable contact breaker, place and secure it with its screw spring and flat washer, On early models , fit the fibre washer to the terminal pin, and fit the contact breaker arm over it. On some points this will be a plastic pin threaded at the top. Insert the flanged nylon bush with the concenser lead immediately under its head, and the low tension lead under that over the terminal pin. Fit the steel washer and nut on the screw. Adjust the points .014 to .016 is good.
Does that make any sense, question pls?
Does that make any sense, question pls?
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
Jack,
"Neg coil to dist. for positive earth, pos coil to dist for positive earth, that's all folks."
That's two positives. Neg coil to dist. for NEGATIVE earth, pos coil to dist for positive earth.
Chris, which dizzy does your car have? You said the engine is a 70s 1275. Wouldn't that have had a 45 series distributor that used different points from the 948 (which probably had a DM2 or 25D4 dizzy)? Look on the side of the dizzy housing for a 5 digit number that will tell us what you've got. There may also be a 3 or 4 digit number on the dizzy housing. Those numbers will tell the week and year the dizzy was made. Let us know what you've got.
"Neg coil to dist. for positive earth, pos coil to dist for positive earth, that's all folks."
That's two positives. Neg coil to dist. for NEGATIVE earth, pos coil to dist for positive earth.
Chris, which dizzy does your car have? You said the engine is a 70s 1275. Wouldn't that have had a 45 series distributor that used different points from the 948 (which probably had a DM2 or 25D4 dizzy)? Look on the side of the dizzy housing for a 5 digit number that will tell us what you've got. There may also be a 3 or 4 digit number on the dizzy housing. Those numbers will tell the week and year the dizzy was made. Let us know what you've got.
OP
ncbugeye
Jedi Warrior
Offline
The distributor has:
41217 A
38 69
This means August 1969, right? I was told 1973 by the PO. The engine block has:
12V 671Z L 18881
There is of course no guarantee that the distributor is the same one that was originally fitted to the Midget engine. I assume it was a Midget because it has a black rocker cover.
41217 A
38 69
This means August 1969, right? I was told 1973 by the PO. The engine block has:
12V 671Z L 18881
There is of course no guarantee that the distributor is the same one that was originally fitted to the Midget engine. I assume it was a Midget because it has a black rocker cover.
