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Name this driveshaft?

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Dale, If this is not a turned bearing, I have a scenario that the DPO may have done. He may have used a GT6 drive shaft as the holes in the flange are the larger or same as the TR series but has a smaller bearing. Get the shaft from Paul as you have a couple of weeks of down time and then you will know you are right.

Wayne
 
We've seen the transmission and differential so we know that those are TR parts as well. If a GT6 driveshaft was used then get a proper TR6 shaft in there. However I still think there was some operator error on the installation of that u-joint and that you do have a TR6 driveshaft.

Sounds like Paul's is ready for you to install though with no more fuss.
 
Been out all afternoon running errands.

Yes Paul, I think it's time I take you
up on your offer. All dimensions and shapes
seem to check out.

What can I say?

Gracias mi hermano; siempre mi casa es tu casa.

Please name a charity that Wendy and I may make
a donation in your name.

address to follow

d
 
The charity that I request will be to help another fellow British car owner when you can, as I'm trying to do for you. It could be as small as a rotor when someone needs it. Just keep the hobby and camaraderie from this forum alive and well.

Drive shaft will be mailed out priority mail tomorrow from Harry & Kodanja land. You should have by Mon or Tues at latest, maybe Sat.

Good luck!
 
Hi All, I looked at this last picture and IMOP compression by the yoke did not cause the fractures. These flaws, Grain Boundary Separations, may be the result of improper machining, Over heated, or improperly quenching. Given that the metal in the yokes is softer than the Bearings, Cap or the Cross shaft I would not expect this to happen as an installation problem.--Fwiw---Keoke
 
YankeeTR said:
It looks to me like the installer had one needle bearing come out of place and it's laying FLAT on the cap. That's the only thing that would keep the cap from hitting home.

It's a common mistake made by rookies and pros alike...I've seen it happen many times.

The only answer is to take the joint apart and do one of two things...1) get a new joint since the cap is now junk or 2)Use the new needle bearings from the new joint but put them in the old cap. Since I'm not one to fret about details, I'd use the new needles and the old cap.

It will probably go another 100k without problems.

Without a doubt Dale, this is operator error.
Click to expand...


I agree with YankeeTR
If you dissasemble the universal and do find a needle berring out of place, I suggest to you that the shop you commisioned to replace your universal joint owes you a new universal joint. However I wouldn`t suggest mixing berrings and caps ETC. Instead I would insist that the shop replace what they are responsible for breaking. In fact I might go as far as to have another reputable shop do the dissasembly in order to document exactly what the problem is/was.
Kerry
Revision:
Make that a driveline shop to do the dissasembly and documentation.
 
Kerry,

Thanks for the input.
That is all well and good but I am fortunate
when I am able locate ANY shop in Puerto Rico
even willing to attempt to work on the TR6.

There are NO Brit car experienced shops here.
It is always a learning curve for me and the
mechanic.

d
 
"Make that a driveline shop to do the dissasembly and documentation."

That will happen.
The owner wants future business from me.

Thanks,

d
 
These cars are simple. Always look for the easiest fix first. Usually a screw-up is the culprit. This is all 1940s technology. Oldtimer mechanics usually do well with these.
 
Your next drive shaft was mailed priority mail this morning, from beautiful North Haven, CT. You should have it in 3 days, so say Monday-Tuesday at the latest. I'll email you the tracking numbers.
 
TR6BILL said:
These cars are simple. Always look for the easiest fix first. Usually a screw-up is the culprit. This is all 1940s technology. Oldtimer mechanics usually do well with these.
Click to expand...
That's MR Old Timer to you! hehehe
 
Yupper,

"It looks to me like the installer had one needle bearing come out of place and it's laying FLAT on the cap. That's the only thing that would keep the cap from hitting home.

It's a common mistake made by rookies and pros alike...I've seen it happen many times."

dead-on correct.

I could not get the cap off the u-joint
so it stuck it in the grinder. So I ground
off the top of the cap.

Sitting on top was a needle bearing.
Will post photo later

Now, how do I get this ground off u-joint
out of the flange?

d
 
At this point in time, Dale probably needs to beat on something, so here's his chance.
 
Tinster
ONCE YOU GET THE CROSS {TRUNION} OUT OF THE WAY USE AN OLD CAP AND BEAT IT ON THRU. two people will help, one to hold the shaft over a vise with the jaws opened silghtly larger than the cap is, place the shaft ground off cap side down on the vise place the old cap in position then using a punch and a big hammer hit it on thru {an old socket the correct size will work as well} the cap shouldn`t be all that tight in the housing.
P.S. if the cap locks are in place make sure you remove them first..
Revision: If you have access to a dremel tool you could very carefuly grind a slot in the cap to relieve the pressure. do not grind into the housing tho.
then the cap should become very easy to remove.
Kerry
 
Ok Guys,

Here is a photo od the u-joint. I was able to pry off
the black rubber band and I could see one needle
bearing was missing under the cap.

I tried everything to get one of the caps off to
remove the cross assembly but failed. With hammer
and socket and vice I could move the cross shaft
and end caps back and forth.

But I could not twist off either cap. YES!! I removed
the sprink locks first.

So I put the u-joint to the grinder.

The photo demonstrates quite well the needle bearing
that was sitting under the cap. The needle bearing was cause of the broken u-joint cap.

Great diagnostic call by several members. Installer
error.

But now? How do I get this thing apart with no damage
to the flange?

Thanks--dale

needle.jpg
 
Dale:
Surly you do not plan to re use the old/new cross.
If not, lay the yoke {flange} on your vise again, remove the end caps that are not in the yolk {flange} take a large hammer and hit the cross directly with the hammer in the direction of the damaged cap and needle it should move outward. Then turn the yoke over and do the same in the other direction. The end caps should move outward enough to remove the cross. Then go for the caps with the punch and hammer
You will need to strike the cross with a firm hard blow in order to move the caps
Be sure that the caps are not obstructed by the vice jaws.
B.T.W. I went out in the garage this A.M. and looked at my baby. Even went as far as to take a re look at my Comm # I`m excited about geting going on it once again. {It`s pretty much in bits and peices, chasis done and tub on but thats about it}
TS-12909 L.O. manufactured in 1956 titled in 1957 so what do I call it? a 56 or a 57 Hahahahahaha. In any case it does have the smallmouth apron, no exterior door handles, no trunk handle like the tr-3 a`s and only one brake/license plate light centered in the rear. Other than those features just another Tr *SMILE* And yea you can have it {bring more guns and ammo than I have here for the gunfight thats going to happen when you come to get it} lol
{I wish I could spell, then I wouldn`t have to keep editing these posts hahahahahahaha.}
Kerry
 
Brosky said:
Your next drive shaft was mailed priority mail this morning, from beautiful North Haven, CT. You should have it in 3 days, so say Monday-Tuesday at the latest. I'll email you the tracking numbers.
Click to expand...

Paul,

I've been lurking on this thread (well, all the crypty threads because it's a lot better than t.v.) and just have to step in and give you props (or as the Brits might say, proper respect). That was an amazingly cool thing to do.

Cheers,
John
 
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