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my TR 3 Problem

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gsalt57tr3

gsalt57tr3

Jedi Warrior
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I am the new owner of a 1957 TR3, commission number TS16434L.

I love my car!

I have run 1 tank of gas thru it. Then the problems began. I started losing power during acceleration. So I took it to my shop where we have rebuilt the carberators, cleaned up alot of the electrical, and done some other things to make it more street worthy. The problem is, I am still losing power during acceleration. Vacumm is good, timing is good. I am at a complete lose.

Any advice?
 
Plugged fuel filter? weak fuel pump? gunk in the fuel lines? If you're sure the igniton is good, I'd start there. I'v seen rust and crud in the tank cause that problem more than once on TR3s
 
Shine a flashlight into the gas tank and see if it has previously been sealed inside -- with the sealer now pulling away.

I'd guess plugged with gunk, or like Banjo said -- the curse of a bad fuel pump.
 
Hi, Glenn -

Glad you're aboard!

Nothing to add to what Sammy and Banjo said. Look at the glass bowl on your fuel pump and see if the gas is clean. You may be able to determine what's causing it from there.

Mickey
 
So many things it could be -- don't rule anything out. Fuel problems as mentioned above could be issue but also check the ignition: points, plugs, correct coil and timing (again).

You say you lose power during acceleration... does this mean it idles fine and cruises okay? What weight oil do you have in the carbs?
 
Problem solved!

My coil was dying. Drove about 40 miles today, runs good now, with a little hesitation at the upper end. Next week we are replacing the points with electronics.

I've got 30 weight oil in the carbs, 20/50 in the crank.

Thanks for the help, I really enjoy my TR3, and will be a regular poster here.
 
After limping home on only one cly. I found that the Pertronix ignition that I had installed over 3 years ago was coming apart. The magnet assy that slips over the came came unglue and the magnets slip out of place. Installed the points back and found that my engine was running better than it ever did. I have reglued the magnet assy and plan on reinstaling at some point to confirm that the Pertronix is not as good as I first thougt when I installed. I found that setting the time was better with the points it idle better did not hesitation as much wither cold or after it was at operating temp. At this point I will stay with points.
 
[ QUOTE ]
...Next week we are replacing the points with electronics...

[/ QUOTE ]

But, like Don, don't forget where you put the points (in the boot is the best place).

Ignition problems seem to be the most common on-the-road failure so I just carry a full replacement (coil, full dizzy with plug wires, plugs). Think about it -- small enough to hold in one hand and can be replaced in minutes with a 7/16 wrench &/or spark plug socket. Not expensive stuff and makes diagnosing the problem easy even if you don't know how to test the parts -- replace with known-good until the problem goes away.

I carry a lot of other stuff too that many would think excessive but IMO a spare ignition system is almost a no-brainer.
 
I think that at the rate of one set of points/cond every 2 years it will take nearly 40 more years before I have the cost of one pointless conversion.........doubtless by then I wont need either.!!!
MD(mad dog)
 
Don, If you want to improve the system (stronger/longer spark duration) try an MSD6 unit. This works very well with points (no condensor and a coil w/less than 1 ohm resistance). I used one in my last vehicle for 5 years and never had a set of pitted/worn points. The consistant energy flow makes them last indef. The only time I changed them is when the spring wore out. The capacitive discharge unit gives mult sparks @ < 2k rpm and a long duration spark above. There is no dwell set required because of this and you can open your spark plugs quite a bit. The only down side is the unit is about the size of a brick and takes some room to hide but it can be placed anywhere. I'm going to fit one to my 3 soon
 
I may look into the MSD6. I have been running with a DYNA system in my BMW motorcycle for almost 20 years and never have had any poblems with this. I wish the Pertronix would have gone this long. The DYNA is made almost the same way. I also carry more spares with me were ever I go. You never know.
 
UPDATE-

I fried 2 coils this weekend, both brand new.

What kills a coil?

Glenn
 
Don, I was going to try a pertronix but you've talked me out of it. Gluing the magnets in place doesn't sound like a solid system. Crane has a system where a window interupts an infrared signal (rotar mounted with external box) and that sounds a bit more 'engineered'. I guess that's why the Pert is cheaper - it's cheaper.
 
I switched to Crane electronic two years ago. Burned out three (3) units. I have been back on standard points and condenser ever since. This subject has been broached several times on the forum and it always raises a heated debate. My vote is to dance with whom you brung. I maintain that old tractor engines don't like new fangled things. I love my dwell meter. Honestly, I don't feel that anyone out there markets an electronic conversion that is of a very high quality. If they did, I might convert back. Some have converted and have zero problems. I, for one, have had many, and so have most of my fellow enthusiats in the N.O. club.

Bill
 
TR6BILL:
Which part did you burn out, the part in the distributor or was it the "box" or BOTH? I want the high voltage MSD too, as it will allow another 0.010" to the plug gap making a "better" spark. On the other hand, I have never read or seen any documentation specific to the TR6 (dyno trials); it just sounds like an easy go faster bolt on.
 
VD,
I always burned out the "black box" part. I actually had two of the 700 (I think that is the numbers) and a 3000. What they don't tell you is the lower numbered unit cannot sit with the ignition in the run position and the engine off for more than a few minutes. This will weaken the unit and ultimately kill it. The 3000 series can handle this but it died on me as well. I use the Lucas Sport coil and gap my plugs much wider than stock. I run solid, 7mm non- or low- resistance wires and set the points with a dwell at 35. Runs great.

Bill
 
Interesting, I've never used the crane stuff and won't try it out now. I never had a problem with the MSD6 and the 62 190 sl I had also had the key/button starter. I will put that unit on the TR3 as it makes the point system more reliable, no condensor, no pitting etc.
 
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