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My ignition woes [and what I did to fix them]

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Jedi Knight
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This post is to recount the last two months in the life of my Triumph TR6, which recently became known as Sybil; because of her multiple personalities. It usually doesn't take me over a year of ownership to name my cars, but for some reason it did with this one, however now that I have I feel good about it. But I digress...

Roughly two months ago, I took a nice 4 hour trip in the TR, it performed very well I thought, that is until I got close to home. It started developing a bad vibration in the rear. When I got home I discovered that a rear hub was failing on me... I had well over an inch of play when I moved the wheel up and down. Since the hubs where recently rebuilt, I took it off and called the supplier, which replaced it without question... However it did take a while because the bearing kit was on back order. All-in-all, it was about a month before the car was reassembled.

The night that I finished reassembling the hub, I took Sybil for a ride.. a very short one. Over a period of 15 minutes, the car decided it wouldn't run below 2000rpm. Above 2000 it ran great... until it hit 4500rpm then it started missing. It was everything I could do get it home.

At home I pulled the plugs, checked the dizzy and found a good bit of play in it...enough that I found very fine metal shavings in the dizzy. It looked as if the rotor was hitting the contacts and shorting out. Now I have a total of 800 miles on this "rebuilt" distributor, so I was pretty erked to say the least. This was the second dizzy I've gone through and I'd had enough of the bad rotors and cheap caps.

So I bought a Mallory Unilite distributor and coil. I found this place out of Nevada that sold it for nearly $300 less than Moss. When I received it, I paid a machine shop $40 to take the drive dog off the old yucky Lucas distributor and install it on the new Mallory. Total install time, including cutting new spark plug wires; 3 hours.

Conclusion: Un-freakin-believable. This is a new car; it finally idles without missing, it pulls harder than it ever has and it doesn't miss over 4500rpm anymore. The only gotcha, and it's a small gotcha, is that I had to send my tach off to APT Instruments to get converted to electronic. But at least I won't have to bother with the tach bouncing all over creation when I shift hard. I'm still waiting on the tach, but the setup is more-or-less done save for that.

If any of you guys are contemplating this mod I highly recommend it. I still have one complete dizzy, my original tach and coil, so I could have this change backed out in less than a day if I want it back stock. But in the mean time, it runs GREAT!!
 
Hello Shannon,
yours is not the first post i have read about complaining of 'rebuilt distributors'. Just what is done when they are rebuilt?
My 30+ year old 25D6 is still running well, on points, and I regularly pull 6,000 rpm on my 2.5.

Alec
(1968 Triumph 2.5 P.I. Saloon)
 
Alec,
I didn't mean to imply that a properly rebuilt dizzy is bad, that wasn't my intention. I could have easily paid for someone to rebuild my original Lucas (which I still might), but for almost the same money (not including the tach conversion), I could have a much superior Mallory.

I think since I've modified my engine quite a bit anyway, the Mallory, for me, is a better choice than the Lucas.

The more I think about it, I might have had two different problems. I had a Pertronix ignition installed and that might have been going bad, I've got an article on how to test it; I'll do that tonight.
 
I'll be interested in seeing what your test reveals. Also the testing procedure. I just bought a Petronix Kit and Coil for my TR6 based on several great reports at the NE Triumph Day last month. My distributor has 53K original on it.

Paul
 
And I'm interested in getting a little more info on that Mallory dizzy. Where did you get it? What did you have to do to fit in your engine? Will the same work on a TR250? Been thinking of replacing the stock distributor in mine with one but couldn't find any info about it.
Dave
 
Dave,

I think the Mallory will fit your engine, but hopefully someone will chime in and confirm that.

Here's what I did: I got the distributor at www.centuryperformance.com. I was referred to them by some fellows at 6-pack.org. I ordered Mallory part number 4567801 for $320.00, which is the Mallory Unilite without vacuum advance. The next day the guy from Century Perf. called me and told me that the dizzy was on nation-wide back order for weeks. However, he did have the dual-point model in stock (part number: 2367801) which is externally the exact same distributor as 4567801. He also sells the Unilite conversion kit which then makes the dual points model identical to the Unilite version. He even converted the dizzy for me. Grand total: $240.00. Not bad considering Moss sells the Unilite for $523.00.

The Mallory does not come with a dog drive, you need to take the one off your old dizzy and have the shaft drilled for it. The Mallory comes with nice instructions, so I dropped it off at a local machine shop to be precision drilled, I had them orient the dog drive (in relation to the rotor) the same exact way the old Lucas was. The charge was $40.00.

The only charge I wasn't expecting came when I read that the Mallory requires a ballast resistor. Since I wanted a new coil anyway, I ordered a Mallory coil, part number: 29450 which has an integrated resistor. I mounted it on the flat spot on the fender well right underneath the master cylinder.

After that I dropped in the new dizzy, connected the wiring, and fired it up.

Of course, the new dizzy doesn't have a tach drive, so you need to either get an after market tach or get your stock unit converted. I chose the later and sent my tach off to APT Instruments (www.gaugeguys.com). I've used them before with success. This conversion costs $225.00, but at least the tach will be dead on accurate.

All in all, since my Pertronics did turn out to be bad, I spent about a $100.00 more than I would have if I had the Lucas distributor rebuilt and the Pertronics replaced. Best of all.. I don't feel compelled to carry an extra set of points (or in my case an extra distributor) in the trunk "just in case".
 
How did you test the Pertronics to determine that it was bad?

Paul
 
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