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My First Question

BLG

Freshman Member
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I have just been bitten by the Brit car bug, and I need advice. If this should be in a different section, please move it. This just seemed the best place to start.

I know that I want a convertible and want to go with an MG or Triumph. I would prefer to stay in the late '60s to mis 70's. Definately no later than '76 (I wouldn't have to smog it next year.)

What years did they start using synchro gearboxes? I have never tryed a non-synchro, and don't really know if there are any drawbacks.

Are some models more reliable than others? I am not averse to working on cars (I have owned a few VW Bugs) and really enjoy tinkering, but I do want to be able to drive it out of town.

This will do to start. I really want to get a car by the next month or so, so I figured I better ask some questions.

Thanks to all,
Brett
 
The syncro gearbox was introduced with the Mk II in mid 1967. They also switched from a dynamo to an alternator at that time. Another big model transition was from the 3- to 5-main bearing engine that happened with the 1964 1/2 model year. I'd stick with the 5-main if I were you. The next huge change was in 1974 1/2 when a slew of catastrophes hit the B, including raised ride height (and lousier handling) to meet US bumper requirements, addition of the big black rubber bumpers, and shortly thereafter going from dual carburettors to single along with a catalytic converter to meet smog requirements.

If you're just starting into things my advice would be to avoid anything post-1974 1/2. From about '67 on up progressively more smog equipment (air pump, gulp valve, fuel evap system) was added to the engines, though there wasn't a massive performance impact until around '75, when the #$ really hit the fan. The earlier cars are "purer" and perhaps slightly more reliable, without all this stuff, though I have a '71 and have never really had any issues with the smog stuff (except for the occasional and relatively inexpensive gulp valve failure).

Here's some more historical info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MG_MGB

As to the difference between MGs and Triumphs, let's just say that MGs were virtually handbuilt in a small factory by a cadre of dedicated craftsmen, while Triumphs were thrown together on large assembly lines by disaffected strikehappy workers from the industrial north. That said, Triumphs in general go like stink compared to the more sedate pace of the equivalent MGs (not including the MGBGT V8.
 
"The syncro gearbox was introduced with the Mk II in mid "1967"." of course meaning that 2nd, 3rd, and 4th are synchonized, but not first & reverse, prior to mid 1967. Second gear is so low that I don't view the non-synchro 1st on my '64 as being a problem at all. I do have to think differently when driving the MG as compared to my modern cars.

Best advice is to buy the best car you can afford in the best condition you can find.
 
Where in CA are you? If you want to check out a few different M.G.s from the 60's, I'd be happy to show some to you.

And just to clarify the Mark II dates, the cars went into production in late '67 but were only registered as 1968 models. If you're looking at a '67, it will be a Mark I with 3-sync transmission. '68 will be Mark II with 4-sync transmission.
 
All years of MG had syncromesh gear boxes in the top three gears, starting in the 1940s, but none had a first gear syncro until late 67 (this was true of all cars up until the late 50s or early 60s). Not having syncromesh in first gear just means that you either learn to double clutch or you come to a complete stop before shifting into first. As Steve notes above, the diference between the early (Mk I) MGB and the later (Mk II) MGBs is either a three syncro (2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears) gearbox or a four syncro gearbx (syncro in all four gears).
Cheers,
 
I'm partial to the '67 myself and welcome to the BCF.
 
This question is so fraught with personal likes, desires, & opinions that I've tried to figure out how to answer it without any of those:

I love the feel of my '67 MGB GT on corners but prefer my '74-1/2 MGB GT for comfort.

I've owned my '79 MGB roadster since it was new & never get tired of driving it but an early car always feels so much more 'brutish' (if I could use that word) and seat of the pants road feel.

Each one does something for me the others can't - & each one is necessary for me to fully enjoy the driving experience of my various moods.

See, you've gotta experiment to determine which car is best for you....heck, sacrilege of sacrileges, it might not even be an LBC! When I just want to feel the wind in comfort, I jump in my 380SL!

I'd say visit car shows, bum rides in friends' cars, peruse magazines & marque-specific books, determine what you're looking for in a car....IOW: lots of research before even thinking about buying.

....& your statement "I really want to get a car by the next month or so" is full of perils - read: emotions! Don't put yourself on a deadlne or you'll end up unhappy with the wrong car.

Also, go read my article on how to buy an MG before you look at the first car: https://www.theautoist.com/buying_an_mg1.htm
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif very well said.
 
I agree that you shouldn't rush into deciding what to get. If possible, research this long enough to find examples of the various cars to drive.

A friend of mine once described his MGB as his 500 mile car while his Midget was his 200 mile car. He went on to explain that those figures described how long he could stand to sit in either one on a long road trip. For around town, you might want to look at Spridgets and Spitfires. The MGB will be a lot more comfortable on longer trips, as will the Triumph GT6. Beyond that you get into some more expensive models. Again, there's no substitute for for trying these cars out... just like you were buying a new pair of shoes.
 
First of all WELCOME!!!!!!! You have made a great first step. All the suggestions above are good, and there is plenty of answers to any question on the forum you can run into. Find a local British car club and they will be happy to give you help in finding a car that will best suit you. Matt joined the Heally club in KC and spent about 10 months, several serious EBay looks, before he found his car, but it was a great car for the money that today he really is enjoying. I agreee that a one month timetable could lead to a disaster.
 
kcbugeye1275....I'm flying into Kansas City Sunday afternoon - spending the week there leaving Saturday am - staying at the Marriott Fairfield out by the airport...how far are you guys from there?
 
Welcome, Brett, and good luck on your quest.

I looked for about 8 months before buying my first LBC (62 TR4) and really should have looked longer. Knowing what you really want before spending the cash is the key to avoiding pitfalls. I wound up selling the TR4 at a loss about 4 months later, and then stayed focused on the car I really wanted (Bugeye Sprite). You can read about some of my travails on my site:

Lessons from my car quest:
https://www.drooartz.com/index.php?page=14

My short list of cars, from when I was looking the 2nd time:
https://www.drooartz.com/index.php?page=2

Car Quest blog (goes back to right after I bought the TR4)
https://carquest.drooartz.com

I spent a lot of time looking at cars, test riding, reading up, researching, and all was well spent. I also joined the local British car club. By the time I was really ready and looking for the Bugeye, I knew what I wanted and what condition I was willing to take on. This way, when I found the deal on the Bugeye I was ready to move quickly.
 
Drew - I really like your lessons article...it'd be a nice addition to the "Shadetree Tech" section of my website along with my articles....
 
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