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my first auto-x....

Congrats on the first time out. I ran Autocross in SCCA for two years before my first daughter was born. I used my totally stock '99 Corvette (including stock run-flat tires.)

You'll be amazed how your driving will improve over the course of five or six outings...plus you take the skills with you.

The last time I raced was a couple years ago with a Corvette club. I was up in a class against some pretty heavily modified C5s, and still wound up winning. You'll realize that horsepower means little in comparison to tires and driving skill.

And if you never spin -- it means you're not driving hard enough!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif (That ONLY applies to autocross, not vinatge racing with other cars on the track.)
 
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You'll realize that horsepower means little in comparison to tires and driving skill.


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Noticed that right off the bat. I'm not interested in any drivetrain modifications, but I'd love to improve the handling with a little suspension work and tires!

The 'fastest' cars did very poorly at this event compared to more mild-mannered cars like mine. Some were downright comical like the Dodge Neon with 460HP. Couldn't keep traction to save his life, placed dead last /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
Fun to watch the 'macho' fellas ("Don't tell ME how to drive!") flailin' about, innit?
 
Rob,

I run FSP, but I have illegal engine mods. I am in a pretty competitive region, so I'm grossly outclassed (by two VW Sciroccos, no less!) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif However, I have car setup issues. I also run a 2.25" dia exhaust and have about 1-1.5" lowering. I drag on EVERYTHING! I also ran without bumpers, which is also technically illegal. However, they're now reinstalled. I plan on competing with my co-driver in his car this year, with mostly national events as our targets, so local stuff won't amount to much for me. I think the most competitive setup for spridgets would be a bugeye with a 1275, as this update/backdate is allowed. You could also update the front brakes, etc. The reason for my opinion is based on the fact that the bugeye chassis is by far the lightest and the update/backdate rule allows us to get the newer dual circuit brake master cyl and all the other goodies, while retaining the fully removeable top and ultra-light chassis.

Just my .02 cents, but I'm afraid I wouldn't worry too much about absolute competitiveness. However, STS2 sounds like a pretty good fit, all things considered. If (unlikely) I switch to a rebuilt stock engine, then I might consider that route in the future. You can't use the 9:1 pistons from the '76 like I can, but who would really know? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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You can't use the 9:1 pistons from the '76 like I can, but who would really know? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

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Pretty sure my 75 has the 9:1 pistons too actually /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
One of these days I'll find out if the '75 I have sitting on my floor has flat tops also. This would be good to know, as there have been some differing opinions as to why the UK spec car has 67 (or sometimes I see 71) hp instead of 53. I suspect that the reason is due to the pistons, instead of a supposedly different cam (unlikely). If it's merely the pistons, a stock 9:1 CR engine would do decently well in FSP, if you did all the suspension work. However, I'm unwilling to make the sacrifices, like cut the fenders, to run anything but the yokohamas.
 
Yah.
The Euro and Candian 1500s have twin SU carbs.
I *think* the cam is a bit different too.

1500 Twin Carb
1975enginebay.jpg
 
Is that out of a spitfire, Nial? How do they get the carbs to work, or is the manifold different? If the difference is merely pistons and dual carbs for 71 hp, it's realistic to think that you MIGHT be able to get 80 Hp out of the stock engine, making it potentially competitive in FSP. Trouble is, the Hondas that we have to compete with can make 100 plus and don't weigh much more than 2k lbs ... the classing is a bit ridiculous (favoring front drivers way too much in my opinion).

As an aside, onetime national champs Alan and Denise Kugler (driving a civic) race at some of the events I attend, and they've spanked me soundly in the past. This is why I don't think a later spridget could make the cut without some very excellent development. Of course, I know they have an enormous experience advantage, but they were well faster than the primary local competition, who's driven for quite a long time.
 
Yes, that's a Spit. But the Euro-Midget has the same setup. You can buy these 1500 twin-carb manifolds on e-Bay occasionally....they're not that rare. Then stick on the SUs. I would actually prefer this setup over the single, side-draft Weber.

And we have the same problem with Hondas in club-racing. One thing: in my class, Hondas *must* run the old 4-speed trans. These are getting rare, so some of the Honda-guys are moving up to the next class (where they can add the 5 speed plus other mods). My car can actually beat a 1500 4-speed Civic up to about 50 MPH in a drag race (I've done it when we have LeMans starts).......but then they can hold RPMs up into the 7500 range in third and I start to fall behind.
 
I think the pic is from a Spit, but I also think the dual carb set-up was a UK only option. Feel free to tell me I am wrong.

I think the setup works for the UK cars because the right hand drive set-up opens more space for the air cleaner.

Again, I am uh just ah specalatin' on a hypothusus, here, so everything I said my be total bull-corn.
 
yea twin carbs would be nice. I've got a coolant leak comming from under the exhaust manifold I'm trying to get to right now. I'm hoping it's just a freeze plug and not the head gasket but we'll have to wait and see once it all comes apart tonight.

While I have the intake off though, I'm thinking of switching to a single SU carb. I already have it sitting in the shed, just need to clean it up, fab up a linkage for it and move the studs on the intake to accomodate the SU.

I'll let you guys know how it goes...
 
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Rob,
I also ran without bumpers, which is also technically illegal. However, they're now reinstalled.

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Humm, didn't think about that one. Would a conversion to the chrome bumpers be considered a backdate?

How often will guys challenge things like that?
 
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....it's realistic to think that you MIGHT be able to get 80 Hp out of the stock engine, making it potentially competitive in FSP. Trouble is, the Hondas that we have to compete with can make 100 plus and don't weigh much more than 2k lbs ... the classing is a bit ridiculous (favoring front drivers way too much in my opinion)....

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I don't know how I feel about any bias towards front drivers. The course I ran this weekend was rather tight. Although front wheel drive cars won first through third place, I don't think they had any inherent advantage and I I wasn't left feeling that my low-power engine was holding me back either.

I guess as much as anything, this is the car I have to build, so I'll make it as competitive as possible....At the end of the day, given how light it is and the lack of restrictions on modifications for tires and fenders to clear the rubber, I think I could make up the lack of power by improved handling....

Am I being unrealistic? Should I consider buying a new platform before I tear up my MG to only find out it can't cut it?
 
This may come across as being from the "Lunatic Fringe" but: Power-to-weight advantage and BALANCE are what you should concentrate on. By "balance" I mean balance as you thrash it around the cones. The fine line between just at and just over traction limits. The right suspension mods can make your car as competitive as the next guy's for handling, the better power-to-weight ratio gets ya to the limit quicker... all a great bit of FUN! Tweak that one as well as you can. If it doesn't get you closer to FTD after you've had a season or two of 'stick time', THEN re-evaluate the "upgrade" to a bigger/faster/more expensive platform.

Just my take on it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Doc is right, though ... IF you're willing to chop the fenders (I'm not) and willing to fiddle with setups (which can be the best part), you can see a great performance improvement. I've got a lot to fiddle with, like changing toe, modifying the steering arms, playing with spring rates, getting rebuilt rear dampers, etc, before I really run out of room. Also, mine's probably the fastest (in a straight line) of all of them due to my engine mods. But it's also by far the least well 'set up' in the handling department. I also can't run Kumhos, which are considered the best tire for absolute grip. My Yokohama's are excellent for treadwear with a good compromise on grip and they just barely fit. The Kumho's (in 175/60R13) are actually .6" wider than the same sized Yoko's, making them (probably) too big for my stock fenders.

However, I've considered going to larger front wheel/tire combos, as I think it could give me more front grip (the back is pretty decent). I find that the tire pressures can get absurdly low with the race tires in the rear before they roll due to the live axle. This can help with rear end grip. I'd also like to experiment with lowering spring rates and installing a rear swaybar to compensate. I have a few theories that need testing.

As to intakes and exhausts, proper dyno development of a tuned length intake and a potential fuel injection setup might make up for reduced horsepower versus the hondas and VW's that're competitive in class. If an in-tunnel exhaust could be fitted, the car could be lowered to extreme levels (even requiring shortening the rear bump stop to get enough bump travel). I drag on everything with my 2.25" flanged exhaust and 1.5" or so lowering. I can't imagine 2" lowered. I generally don't hit the stops on course, however, so I've got enough bump travel at the moment.

As to updates/backdates, the rules read "as a unit" so you can update the bumpers. As long as significant material removal isn't inolved, I think chrome bumper backdating would be ok. I'd have to re-read the exact wording, and it'd be wise to have an argument already prepared in case of protests. For instance, "backdating" the top (removing it) might be ok, as long as the officials didn't know that Midgets (sprites aren't listed on the same line with midgets, so you have to limit your backdating to within the realm of midgets, bugeyes aren't a candidate) with removeable tops actually have a slightly different body construction.

There's plenty to develop to make the car competitive, but I feel that you're inherently limited by such an old chassis. Even though I prefer RWD, the SCCA seems to put them at a large disadvantage to FWD cars. Also, newer vehicles generally have better performance 'out of the box' than our old hardware. However, it can be made to perform. Plus, it gets tons of attention due to the uniqueness of the car. Just about everyone who I meet when I'm co-driving the MR2 says, "don't I know you?" "Yellow MG Midget" "Oh, yeah!"
 
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You can't use the 9:1 pistons from the '76 like I can, but who would really know? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

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Pretty sure my 75 has the 9:1 pistons too actually /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

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Looking through the VB and Moss catalogs has me wondering now if I really do have the 9:1 high compression pistons or not since they only show them for 76. My Midget Driving Handbook on other hand, on page 62 under 'General Data', subsection 'Engine' shows 9.1:1 high compression for non-catalytic converter cars. My 75 didn't come with a cat, so I've always assumed I have the 9.1:1 flat tops.

Guess I'll find out when I pull the cylinder head to replace the head gasket!
 
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