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My $500.00 Midget needs motor so

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mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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I have found a complete 78 Midget for good money.

How bad of a idea is it to put a 1500 in my 67 Midget. it will be just a driver back and forth to work. Money is tight and this is a good deal if I can work it out.
 
Don't think it will fit ie is not a bolt in.
 
I think the main thing you will have to do aside from things like motor mounts hoses and verious plumbing, is to notch the front cross member. If I remember right, the 1500 engine crank pulley will not clear the A-Series car front cross member.
 
But, with the one as a template....

While not ideal, for the money and the reality that it is a $500 car, go for it. The 1500 motor is not as bad as folk make out, and, for a daily driver, a 1500 has both an unleaded head and electronic ignition.

So, go for it! it will get you driving
 
scoutll said:
I think the main thing you will have to do aside from things like motor mounts hoses and verious plumbing, is to notch the front cross member. If I remember right, the 1500 engine crank pulley will not clear the A-Series car front cross member.
Click to expand...

The notching of frame is fine, rerouting of hoses linkage should be fine since I have donor car, but you are saying that motor mounts are all different also. are the trees different or the location in the frame?

What about transmission mount, are they different too.

If mounts need to be made I doubt I will try it.

Also this will have the 373 rear gear also?
 
John-David,
I am not too sure on all that. I do know that the 1500 and BL tranny is significantly different from the A-Series and Ribcase. I would hazard a guess that the engine and tranny mounts are not too different though. BL were notworthy for their cost cutting, and it would have been cheaper to adapt the engine and tranny to the spridget body, than to alter the frame and tunnel stampings to fit the Triumph drive train. If you have the mounts and stuff on the 78, it could most likely be made to fit the 67.
 
An A series engine will bolt up to a 1500 but going from A series to 1500 is a lot of work.
Front cross member needs to be depressed or swapped out t with the 1500, the motor mounts will bolt to the car, I an not too sure about the tranny mounts.
I would spend the $500 and freshen up the 1275 in the 67.
New rings and bearings, a gasket set, oil pump, water pump, and there you go.
Hone it at home with a $20 ball hone, put in new rings and bearings and you have a freshened up engine for about $300 and some time.
Probably less time then redesigning the frame for a 1500 that you don't know how it runs.
 
the complete 1500 is $300.00 and is running in the car. I am thinking I will get $40-$60 at scrap yard the 3.7 rear should bring at least $250-$300 on ebay.
then I will have disc brake set up for one of my bug eye projects or to sell on ebay.

Spritenut my 1098 needs two sleeves, previous owner tried his own re-condition and broke the rings on install. by the time I took it apart the walls have very deep scrapes 1/2" wide.

What is the big deal about changing over, other than cross member. (I would have the cross member from other car I could trade out). I know the carburator is on opposite side, but all these mechanics are pretty simple to move around.
 
Cross member is welded in.
 
I would mount the fenders and bumpers of the $500 car on the $300 car. Your $300 car will be hard to tell from a true chrome bumper car from a distance. Plus, it is all reversible, so if you get around to building up the $500 car, you can just put the parts back on, then sell the $300 car for $300.
 
Bad idea.....

You'll spend way more time and money trying to fit the
1500 & trans into your car than you will finding a
decent 1275 (or 1098, 948) engine. In addition you'll
have to deal with the shortcomings of the 1500.
Funky, expensive and unreliable electronic ignition,
crappy carb, typical thrust bearing issue (falls out
if worn).

Be patient and look for an "A" series engine. Lots of them
out there in otherwise junk cars for cheap.
Steve
 
I like the bumper swap idea. Keep the CB car on the side till you can get your $$$ straight. If something happens to the RB car in the meantime, you aren't out anything. OR, just drive the RB car w/ RB's. I've always said the RB's are the drivers of the Spridget world. You might not have a 3.70., as my '79 didn't.

Jus' drive the darn thing !!!!
 
Steve P...some nice stable ya got there! :thumbsup:
 
Radiator is larger and will block your cabin air intake. No place to hook up your water temp bulb. Tach and electronic ignition probably not compatible.
Just a few more things that will give you headache's.
I bought a 73 parts car that the PO had intended to put a 1500 in(rebuilt 1500 as well). The project was abandoned and hence the parts car.
Kurt.
 
Steve P. said:
Bad idea.....


Funky, expensive and unreliable electronic ignition,
crappy carb, typical thrust bearing issue (falls out
if worn).
Steve
Click to expand...

Climbs on soapbox. Yes, crappy carb, SU is an easy swap, but electronic ignition is a Chevette module if you need to change it, thrust bearing can be an issue if you sit still with your clutch depressed. But, though it might not be appropriate in this application, still reliable, unleaded ready, no points and, in British nick (twin su's 9:1 compression the first true 100 mph Midget.
:nonono:
grin.gif
 
OK OK no deal, this 1500 car is full of rust way beyond repair except for a disperate person.

I was just hoping nobody did it because of the motor not the trouble to install.

I really like my $500 Midget, even with all its dings. I will find a solution.
I have another 1098 in my garage, but it is the earlier verson. maybe I will tear it down and see what I have. Probably junk since one spark plug was left out of cylinder head and it sat outside like that for who knows how long

Thanks for the information and saving me troubles
 
JPSmit said:
Steve P. said:
Bad idea.....


Funky, expensive and unreliable electronic ignition,
crappy carb, typical thrust bearing issue (falls out
if worn).
Steve
Click to expand...

, but electronic ignition is a Chevette module if you need to change it,
Click to expand...

NOt just Chevette, but almost everything GM 4-8 from 74-about 85 or 6

CBE4 is the BW pt#.
 
Actually I just put a common 1275 style distributor and common coil on my 1500 and it ran fine (until the flywheel broke off!). The dist is just a "bolt-on swap!
BillM
 
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