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My 100-6 Won't Start

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hundredsixinsf said:
Does a coil just die? Or does it die out slowly over time? My car was starting fine just several months ago and has been stored in the garage since then.
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If you still have the original coil, chances are high that it has degraded. I am not saying that it is the likely cause of your current problem since your problem didn't start until after you replaced stuff in your carbs but you never know for certain until after your current problem it is fixed.
Get out your trusty ohm meter and measure the primary side of the coil with all of the wires disconnected. It should be close to three ohms. If it's significantly different, then your coil is going/gone bad. Also if you see any signs of the oil leaking out onto the generator, the coil should be replaced. If it checks out close to three ohms, the coil is still OK and you can continue looking at other things.
 
You said that the engine was running fine a few months ago. It's probably not just bad gasoline, but if that gas has been sitting for months, it's probably not what you want to be running through your engine. In addition to whatever else you are doing, I'd change out that gas.
 
Thanks guys. I've added fresh gas, so tank is full with good fuel. I'll measure resistance at the coil. I've pulled the plugs after attempting to start it and several had fuel one them. But I haven't pulled the float chamber covers off to verify they are full. But started to. I started to unscrew the bolt that fastens the cover and saw gas starting to seep out. So I'm fairly certain I'm getting fuel to the float chambers. But I'll go all the way and confirm. The fuel pump is clicking and then goes silent once the fuel pressure is built up. After sitting overnight, it clicks again then goes silent after pressure build up. So the pump is working fine. I haven't changed the spark plugs yet, so I'm going to try that next. Also I've recharged the battery fully.

The only things I changed on the carbs were the float needles. But I'd think fuel flow would be fine now, with new needles and seats!
 
hundredsixinsf said:
But I haven't pulled the float chamber covers off to verify they are full. But started to. I started to unscrew the bolt that fastens the cover and saw gas starting to seep out. So I'm fairly certain I'm getting fuel to the float chambers. But I'll go all the way and confirm.


The only things I changed on the carbs were the float needles. But I'd think fuel flow would be fine now, with new needles and seats!
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Whenever you check your float chambers, you have to check them both. Your car won't run if only one carb float chamber has fuel in it, and the other is empty.
 
gents, wouldnt it be fun to perhaps spray a little either into the carbs and try to start the engine to verify fuel starvation? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif
 
anthony7777 said:
gents, wouldnt it be fun to perhaps spray a little either into the carbs and try to start the engine to verify fuel starvation? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif
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Several weeks ago my BN2 would also not start (ran fine the day before). After checking for spark as suggested above and also checking all fuel filters (fuel pump and carbs I sprayed either into the carbs and the beast started but would not continue to run. When checking in the service manual I found on page C/8 STICKING PISTON. Following the instructions I found that this was the problem and easily corrected it.
 
Is there any chance your timing has become off? You didn't mention moving the dizzy around, but timing's certainly on the checklist for non-starting issues.
 
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