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Moving high beam switch

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drooartz

drooartz

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My Bugeye currently has the standard floor-mounted dip switch for the high beams. I'd like to move this to a toggle switch in the dash to free up some floor space for my big feet.

What do I need to do? The Tunebug currently has a completely stock wiring setup. Can I just extend the wires and add a switch? How many amps does the switch need to carry? Is there a better/simpler way?

Thanks!
 
I would do it with a relay but that could get a little complicated (single pole-double throw relay with toggle switch for high beams)
Bill
 
Turn it over and remount higher up with the upper screw. Driven lots of miles that way.

Works good!

Steve
 
oh many amps? lots. headlights on full beam 55W each x2 110w divide by 12v = 9.167 Amps call it 10A a big toggle switch on the dash would suffice but a "change over relay" would be much better: Relay pin 85 to ground. Pin 86 through the dash switch to a switched + i.e. ignition (this will only be very low current). Pin 30 to the light switch pin H, relay 87a low beam, 87 high beam.
I'm currently completely re-wiring my frogeye, adding a 4 way relay block & a bank of 16 fuses (not sure I'll use all 16, but I will use more then the two as originally used). I'm also using a relay to switch on the headlights to save the headlight switch (so this switch is also not taking 10A + wide lights & dash lights). I'm planning later to switch headlights to use 100W full beam bulbs, that'll take my total to 20A. Hence the re-wire as I wouldn't like to put that through the original 50 year old string & later bodged connections.
 
Thanks for that info. Relay shouldn't be too hard to wire in.
 
Drew, I didnt realize the bugeyes had the floor switches. My midget they ran it into the windshield wiper arm. Pull the arm toward you and it would turn on the high beams. There is also a blue bezel on the dash that illuminates when they are on. I wonder if the stearing column can be retrofitted to use the switch like what is in the midgets?
 
No space on a Bugeye column for a switch. I'm planning on making a small switch panel that would mount under the dash, so I've got space for a headlight dip switch and a switch for the electric fuel pump.

A few nice toggle switches would look properly period anyways. :smile:
 
Midget78 said:
Drew, I didnt realize the bugeyes had the floor switches. My midget they ran it into the windshield wiper arm. Pull the arm toward you and it would turn on the high beams. There is also a blue bezel on the dash that illuminates when they are on. I wonder if the stearing column can be retrofitted to use the switch like what is in the midgets?
Click to expand...

Sweendog, yours is on the wiper switch? mine is on the turn signal switch (I think)

weird
 
For Midgets, it should be on the turn sig switch. Wiper switch was for foglamps on the MGB. If the turn sig switch frazzled in the dim and distant past, I would imagine it's not unlikely a PO re-wired it to the other side.
 
Drew, visit McMaster-Carr and Granger. Look for a DPDT pushbutton. I've not done it but splicing a relay set into the harness after the floor mount one shouldn't be too challenging.
 
You can always use the dash lamp switch, it's already there, nobody turns off the dash lights. Just re-route the wires from the harness where they join for LH drive and run them behind the dash to the switch.
 
Great idea to use that dash lamp switch, Frank. I like it.
 
Just one suggestion--when you're switching DC, especially incandescent lights, it's always a good idea to pick a switch that is over-rated. The lights draw more current at turn-on than when operating, and DC really tends to fry switches. I suspect that most switch current ratings are at least a little optimistic. So, for ~10 amps of lighting, I'd use at least a 15 amp rated switch; you might find only 20 amp switches, though. This'll be one husky motha.

Makes one of those 30-40 amp relays look good!
 
My plan now is to use a relay for the high/low switch, with the relay triggered by the dash light switch. Seems the simplest method, really, and doesn't require any new holes in the dash.

Thanks again for all the really great ideas here.
 
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