Moving a workshop!

[Steve]

I'm really enjoying this thread.... Don't let me disturb you!

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Oh yeah! This definitely scores on the "Hey, y'all - watch this!" factor!

 

[NutmegCT]

J-P - when you moved those concrete pads, what kind of "rollers" did you use?

 

[JPSmit]

J-P - when you moved those concrete pads, what kind of "rollers" did you use?

This was years ago - and, my father worked for the railroad so everything - and I mean everything was scavenged. I don't know what the pipes were - possibly steam pipes or ??? but, I clearly recall that they weren't any more than 3 or 4 inches in diameter.

(as an aside, we moved the driveway because we had closed in a carport to make a new kitchen. The subfloor was tongue and groove from the sides of a dismantled boxcar! I don't remember what type of wood it was, but I would love to have wood that quality today)

 

[NutmegCT]

Boxcars were usually made of tongue/groove oak or maple. The flooring is now highly prized - if you can find it.

Question to all:

My workshop sits on 4x4 pressure treated timbers. See photo attached.

So don't I have to find rollers (pipes) that are at least over 4" outside diameter, so I can jack up the workshop and slide the pipes underneath?

Seems any pipe under 4" diameter wouldn't meet the frame - as the frame is already 4" off the ground.

Thanks.
Tom
View attachment 35901

 

[Rhodyspit75]

You could lay 4x4's between the piers and use pipe on top of them until you get clear of the piers. You could then keep moving the 4x4's along the path to the new location. It would give you a better surface to roll on. Then you could use something like the pipes I offered.

 

[NutmegCT]

You could lay 4x4's between the piers and use pipe on top of them until you get clear of the piers. You could then keep moving the 4x4's along the path to the new location. It would give you a better surface to roll on. Then you could use something like the pipes I offered.

Thanks for the idea. I assume by piers you mean concrete "foundation posts" at the corners? I don't have those.

Also, just so my addled brain is following ... are you saying jack up the frame enough to put the rolling pipes *on top of* the current 4x4s? Then adding additional 4x4s to make a "path"?

Tom

 

[CaptRandy]

Back the 60's we used to beach boats past the high tide level by using logs and a block/tackle hooked to a pin driven into the sand on the beach about 8 ft long with an eye welded on the end for the block hooking point. Reversed by leaving last log under stern of boat and pushing to the water to refloat.

 

[JPSmit]

wouldn't you just put the pipes between the 4X4's and the ground - even if it meant turning the shed 90 deg first? - Or use the 4X4's as runners on some type of greased (or melamined) surface - 2X 6 or 8?

 

[Rhodyspit75]

Looking at your picture I thought that what I saw below the shed and above the ground were piers that sat on some sort of footing. I think now that they are 4x4's that run the length of the shed and sit on the ground. If that's the case then you just need to jack them up with the shed and put rollers under them.

 

[NutmegCT]

jacking up the three 4x4s, putting the pipes underneath, does seem the simplest route.

So are we talking simple 2" diameter iron pipes? just over 12' long?

I'm picturing the pipes getting jammed down into the frozen ground as we roll the shop forward. Not good.

Edit: also worrying that if those 4x4s are somewhat buried in the gravel/earth, there'd be a major problem getting jacks under them for the entire 12' length. Jacking up the end and putting pipe under the end would be tough enough; but rolling the 4x4s forward, if stuck in the earth, would seem next to impossible. That's why I wondered if raising the workshop so the pipes could go *on top of the 4x4s" might be more do-able.

 

[NutmegCT]

Seems this guy has the same idea.

 

[Rhodyspit75]

Are the 4x4's attached to the shed? If so when you jack up the shed they should come off the ground. Then you can put down 2x4's as runners and put the pipe between the runners and the 4x4's. It appears that the spacing between the 4x4's is not the full 12 feet of the shed. If not then you can use less than 12 ft long pipes.
The video you attached shows just what we are talking about.

 

[NutmegCT]

I'm 99% sure the 4x4s aren't attached. They just sit on flat concrete "pads" on the ground - but if you look under the workshop, you see they've slightly sunk down into the ground over the last 15 years.

You're right about the 4x4 spacing being less than 12' - but wouldnt' I need to be able to reach both ends of the pipe during the moving and "re-placing" process? (altho' I suppose just sticking a broom handle into the pipe to manipulate might work)

Somehow Laurel and Hardy come to mind ...

 

[JPSmit]

if you have three or four pipes you can let one roll all the way out and the shed won't drop, just walk it around to the front.

BTW we are now up to fours pages of discussion - coulda moved it by now just saying.

 

[NutmegCT]

Definitely could have moved it by now! Just need:

more timbers, concrete pads, pipes, and a helper!

Wait - my helpers are here:

 

[waltesefalcon]

We need to have a poll to see what the best method for moving your shed is.

 

[NutmegCT]

But first - we need to form a committee to determine how the poll is worded!

 

[Rhodyspit75]

Maybe we could use the poll to roll the shed on. Oh wait that's spelled different!

 

[judow]

Video when and if you do it please. I'm curious as to why you want to move it as it seems not to be a simple task. Does it have anything to do with a new garage?