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Moss Blown Spridgets
- Thread starter trboost
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Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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...and slightly expensive. Robert started a thread on the mgbbs where he shared some of the tuning done on the car. It seems that it might be a good starting point for a powerful little A-series. Very tempting, if it didn't cost as much as my midget. I hope a number of people purchase them so that Moss continues to develop performance parts for these cars.
OP
trboost
Jedi Trainee
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I know it sounds expensive, but now figure out how much you would have to spend to get the same reliable HP gain using conventional performance parts. Also take into consideration usable HP, not just power that comes in at 4,000 rpm's. Keep in mind the torque gains which are hard to match. Now as far as I'm concerned , it's a rather good value, HP to dollar ratio.
Morris
Yoda
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For the very adventurous... you can purchase just a super charger here https://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/repair-an...nz-c-class.html and create a Sprigenstien monster of your own.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
I agree mitch, it is a significant gain for very little effort. But, after I get the SC in place then I'll still feel the need to re-build the engine to try and get more power. ;-)
Are you running an MSD boost retard? If so, has it helped you get your dist. curve matched?
Are you running an MSD boost retard? If so, has it helped you get your dist. curve matched?
OP
trboost
Jedi Trainee
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Hey Trevor,
I agree, as with any performance up grade, the motor must be in spec. SC'ing or turbo requires stock compression ratio's under 8:1 to run 9lbs or under at sea level. Take in to consideration this is all for a street motor that will yield a reliable 100,000 mile life span , unlless unusual abuse or abnormal conditions will be the norm.
I use an MSD 6A with boost retard. I set my timing curve to a max of 34 deg total advance, 8deg initial , with 9lbs of boost, using a dial back timing light. I do run 92 or 93 oct fuel but could probably get away with 89 in the colder season. Even though , I still stick with the higher octane for that little extra bit of insurance. As long as you control you engine temp & timing I haven't found a need for water or alcohal injection.
It has been amazingly reliable & easy to maintain.
I agree, as with any performance up grade, the motor must be in spec. SC'ing or turbo requires stock compression ratio's under 8:1 to run 9lbs or under at sea level. Take in to consideration this is all for a street motor that will yield a reliable 100,000 mile life span , unlless unusual abuse or abnormal conditions will be the norm.
I use an MSD 6A with boost retard. I set my timing curve to a max of 34 deg total advance, 8deg initial , with 9lbs of boost, using a dial back timing light. I do run 92 or 93 oct fuel but could probably get away with 89 in the colder season. Even though , I still stick with the higher octane for that little extra bit of insurance. As long as you control you engine temp & timing I haven't found a need for water or alcohal injection.
It has been amazingly reliable & easy to maintain.