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More Water pump questions

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SCguy

SCguy

Jedi Warrior
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I got my pulley off... but now how do I put it on the new pump. Pic 1 is the old pump. Pic 2 is the new pump. I could tap it on (similar to how I got the old one off). The problem is the new one has a key (which can be removed). Is the key supposed to fit into a groove or something? The old pulley is just smooth inside no groove.

Oh... and if anyone thought I was going to run short on questions, attached is how my engine is looking /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

IMG_9206.jpg

IMG_9205.jpg

IMG_9207.jpg
 
I'm thinking 2 diferent pumps. It's been a while,but, I think there where 2 different styles?
Direct from Moss site
28 327-110 $0.75

WOODRUFF KEY

TR250, TR6 to (e)CC80027E for orig. pumps only 1
29 835-040 N/A

WATER PUMP & PULLEY, with 1/2" groove

TR6 from (e)CC80028E thru 1974
 
No, I think it is different from your original. Call Moss and verify. I might be wrong though.
don
 
Hi Larry,

The second, new pump has the original type shaft and woodruff key. It uses the original style pulley.

The old pump has the pressed-on type pulley, which you really aren't supposed to be able to remove. Congratulations on getting it apart, but the pulley that was on it is not interchangeable with the new pump. So, you'll need to get a new (or used) pulley, as well.

The pressed-on pulley pumps were non-servicable replacement parts offered over the years. Today, most pumps seem to use the original shaft & woodruff key, which theoretically can be rebuilt locally if a seal or bearing goes out.

To utilize the pressed-on pulley pump, it was necessary to convert one of the bolts to a stud and nut arrangment. That's because the pulley on the original pump needed to be removed first, to fully remove that one bolt. The stud & nut must already have been done on your car, to accomodate the pump you removed. No worries, though, the stud & nut will work fine with the new pump too, unless originality is a big concern.

It looks like you are making good progress!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
As noted... you need to source an original pulley. When you have it do a trial fit on your new pump. I see some grind marks in your photo -- which is good -- the casting of the original-style replacement pumps can sometimes foul the pulley and have to have a bit of grinding to allow it to spin w/o contacting the pump body. Those grind marks may mean that the manufacturer of the pump has taken care of this, but try the pulley on the pump while it is still on the bench to be sure before you get it all mounted up to the engine.
 
Another thought on your new pump. Don't know if you're trying for extreme originality or just 'driver' status, but the original pump would have had a grease zerk on that flat boss at the lower left of the pic. Your replacement is 'lubed for life' but if you want an original look you can fit a dummy zerk on there. Easiest was it to grind the threaded end off a zerk and put it on with JBWeld. Or, you can drill & tap that boss to take a zerk. With a bit of cross-drilling I believe you could even make it a functional zerk though I have never tried that.
 
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