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TR2/3/3A more ? on the TR3 deck lid

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twigworker

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A member here has offered a very decent earlier deck lid for the car that is going through the nut/bolt.

What I need to know is whether or not the earlier lid with the two locking fasteners at the lower rear corners will match up to the contours of the car. The car in question is a "mid production" car that had a central keyed locking handle.

I also realize that there was a change in hinge mountings too, but I don't have the old lid at hand to see if it has raised bosses for them or not, nor do I know whether this "new" one has them.

Comments and suggestions are, as always, gladly accepted.

Jack
 
Generally, it's only TS60001 and later cars that would have the raised hinge platform on body, bootlid and bonnet. As to contours matching otherwise, it should be no big deal (even though I've seen a few cars with original bootlids where contours could've been better)!
 
What a shame to put that much effort into restoring a car, and then use the wrong boot lid! To me, it just screams "I don't know what I'm doing".

I think the contours will match at least reasonably well, but you'll be missing the pads where the budget locks engage the body. Without them, the lid may rattle annoyingly.

If you are up for some metal work, I still have the lid from TS39781LO and I'll let it go cheap. It has a section at the rear that is buckled almost vertical for about 6" from the accident, but was in good condition beforehand.
 
TR3driver said:
What a shame to put that much effort into restoring a car, and then use the wrong boot lid! To me, it just screams "I don't know what I'm doing".

I think the contours will match at least reasonably well, but you'll be missing the pads where the budget locks engage the body. Without them, the lid may rattle annoyingly.

If you are up for some metal work, I still have the lid from TS39781LO and I'll let it go cheap. It has a section at the rear that is buckled almost vertical for about 6" from the accident, but was in good condition beforehand.
Click to expand...

IMO, reworking an early bootlid would not be that far fetched and might require a lot less filler than patching the corners of a rusty one. The pads, if I remember, are spot welded on and easy to replace. The same with the cross braces (I think some of the early lids didn't have them0.
Tom
 
The goal is to produce a very dependable and good looking driver and most of the lids that we have come across were going to take as much work to rehab as it would to deal with the lid we already have here.

The folks who are actually doing the body and paint work are real pros at fabrication and I suspect that they can take the lid offered and make it identical to the trashy one.

I just wanted to know about any curvature differences before I push button on the purchase.

Thanks to all ! Jack
 
twigworker said:
The folks who are actually doing the body and paint work are real pros at fabrication and I suspect that they can take the lid offered and make it identical to the trashy one.
Click to expand...
Back at their previous location, Moss used to put a car in the showroom. I once saw a "professionally restored" TR3A sitting there, absolutely gorgeous, except it had the wrong trunk lid.

My point being, don't assume they will fix it.
 
Best to keep trying for a TR3A lid with the center handle only. Check the tub as to whether raised hinge plinths are needed.

A small mouth TR2/3 lid with Tee key budget locks is less likely to be a good fit than a TR3A lid. These were hand assembled cars and tooling changed slightly over the years. Panels were "adjusted" for fit using rubber mallets.

Wonder if Wayne at Triumphs Only in Stockton CA is still selling any used panels ?. He's been trying to sell his business lock, stock and barrel on ebay, but maybe worth an enquiry after a serviceable TR3A trunk lid.

Viv.
 
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