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Moisture in fuel tank

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Bill Redd

Bill Redd

Jedi Hopeful
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Good Morning!

Are TR6's more prone to moisture in the fuel tank than other cars?
I've had problems with "Nigel" (okay, my daughters named him), but it happens sporatically. I'll be slowing down, with clutch in, and the engine will cough and then cut out. However, it generally starts right up without a problem.

Since it rains during our winter, and this has been a wet winter, I'm wondering if this is moisture related.

Any specific suggestions on an additive for moisture, or would just about any of them likely do the trick?
 
Would Dry Gas help? Supposedly, it helps with combustive power and is supposed to cure moisture spoiled fuel. I have never tried it though.
 
Moisture also affects the secondary ignition system. Try changing the cap, rotor wires and plugs.
 
Hello Bill,

I understood that condensation often forms in tanks and it tends to lie there under the pick up level. My P.I. has a filter with a drain so as to periodically drain in case of any water trapped in it.

I believe it also applies to underground storage tanks as well, depending on ambient temperatures etc.

Alec
 
4 oz. of methyl hydrate added at the time of a complete fill will dry your gas for about a buck. I doubt that this is your issue though
 
Tomster said:
4 oz. of methyl hydrate
Click to expand...
Had to look it up ... methyl hydrate is a synonym for methanol, methyl alcohol, wood alcohol, etc. Also commonly sold as "gas line dryer" (tho not all such products use methanol).
 
I would have thought that the 10% ethanol in your gasoline in USA would absorb all the water vapour or moisture. Maybe you have too much moisture in this ethanol and it's getting into the float bowls and causing this.
 
If your problem is water, keep your tank as full as possible at all times. This can be a problem though with today's gasolines having a five minute shelf life.
But keeping full doesn't allow for condensation to form, which is only a problem when ambient temps fluctuate a lot.
 
"But keeping full doesn't allow for condensation to form, which is only a problem when ambient temps fluctuate a lot."

I will have to keep track of that and see. Lately, we've had temps ranging from about 40 degrees at night, to mid 60's during the day. Not a big range, but the moisture around here is enough to form a heavy fog at times...
 
that shouldn't be a problem. gas tank moisture condensation(with the lines intact) was never a problem on the 6's.

Biggest problem they get is moisture condensation on the inside of the distributor cap. So get some electrical contact cleaner, pull the cap off, spray it very good, let dry, reinstall, make sure the rotor is secure, and move on to something else. Does it start well and not misfire when cold, under no load? If cranking has become excessive your coil may be starting to fade away into nothingness.
 
Ron,

I have the exact same problem and have quit driving
my car, until this issue is resolve- except small test
runs here in the neighborhood,


All new fuel and spark components; starts immediately, shuts
down immediately. Idles at 800 rpms, drives real nice and
then for no reason known to me; the engine stumbles at highway
speed, quits and then within 5 seconds kicks back in and
drives fine. Fuel filters clean as a whistle. It happened twice
after about 1/2 hour's driving time.

It has happened twice now on different tanks of gas with
300 miles driven between engine stumbles.

Yeah, I know I've asked this question before and it miffed some
of the experts here as being stupid. But I'm asking again
because I'd like to drive this car with my wife in and not
worry about breaking down completely. The "experts" can kindly
ignore my question if it offends them.

Two of us with the identical problem makes it a legit question.

d
 
Many, many years ago, an acquaintance had a TR6 that exhibited pretty much the same problems. Drove us crazy for quite awhile...until we discovered a small, wadded-up gum foil wrapper drifting around in the gas tank. Every so often it would drift over to the outlet pipe and block it off. Very annoying, but easy to fix (if you consider R&R of the gas tank "easy")!

Oh, and Dale, not to worry. Again, the only stupid questions are ones that aren't asked, IMO! See above; sometimes really stupid things cause problems.
 
Dale:

Glad to hear it's not just me. I'm going to have to watch fuel level, etc, for awhile and see if there are some variables that can be controlled.

It's the real inconsistency that bugs me. When my wife's car was in the shop for a week, the TR6 was all that I drove that week. It "hiccupped" once all week. I had to slow down for a light, which had just turned green. I slowed to get to the same speed as the cars starting to leave the light, and it stalled in the middle of the intersection. Fortunatly, the people behind me had slowed also!

Rick, do you chew gum?
 
I had problems with my deisel F350 a few years ago. The water in fuel lamp kept coming on. I replaced filters, additives into tank, did it serveral times... So I'm fueling up one day while it's raining and the fuel truck was there filling the underground tanks. Guess where the parking lot rain was running to?
I stopped buying fuel there and haven't had any trouble since. Maybe it's your suppler.
I used to have a test tube like device. You put a small measure of H2O into the thing and then topped it off with fuel and shook it. Any water in the gas would fall out of suspension and into the H2O and would then increase the water line from previous mark. I was having trouble with a Mobil Gas Station and quit buying fuel there. I burnt up two Echo PB400-E backpack blowers at 369.00 each and was told by the mechanics that it was a fuel issue.
 
Dale: You know I'm not the all knowing,
but I had a similar scenario on another vehicle.
Believe it or not, the coil acted up when it
got hot. Have no idea why. Just something that
happens, I suppose.

Have no clue how to trouble shoot this, though.
Maybe someone will embelish for us.

Are you running the stock coil? Did you upgrade
to Flame Thrower or some such?
Got an old original laying around? Easy to change
out and verify.

Good luck, Tinster
 
I think Dale is on his fourth or fifth coil. HE was burning through them pretty quick for a while there.
 
I'm on my fifth coil in 1300 miles but this one has not
burned up in almost 500 miles. I probably should change
it out just to be safe. I have several spare coils in my
parts department trunk.

I will also look for any loose wire connections before the
plugs.

regards,

d
 
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