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I've been told that by shortening the stock metal shift surround it can be made to work with the Datsun transmission. What I don't know is how much it needs to be shortened to prevent it from interfering. Has anyone done this successfully and/or know how much it has to be shortened?
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Modifying stock shift surround for Datsun 5 speed
- Thread starter Loren C
- Start date
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Yes, I've done it but I also modified the shift lever by cutting it and rewelding the lever on the side of the cut off. This gets the lever to a more central position. I then cut all the straight side off the stock hump and rewelded that. As I remembered about an inch and a half. As i think about it now though, i scrapped the idea of running the stock rubber boot because I though it was contributing to popping the gear shift lever out of gear in one gear and now run the later lever gaitor and a homemade seal that seals out drafts right at the pivot of the lever.
Kurt.
Kurt.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
I cut about 3/4" out of mine and carefully re-welded the shifter to center it. It still pops the rubber gaiter out of place from time to time. I'm not happy with how it turned out.
SD Bugeye
Jedi Warrior
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I would wait before you cut a thing until you have the 210 box in place and have shortened the shifter.
in my case I followed the instruction on cutting down and offsetting the Datsun sifter and marrying the stock one .
mine fits perfect with surround boot and shifts perfect with no modifications to the boot.
heres the shifter in neutral on my car.
in my case I followed the instruction on cutting down and offsetting the Datsun sifter and marrying the stock one .
mine fits perfect with surround boot and shifts perfect with no modifications to the boot.
heres the shifter in neutral on my car.
1974MGMidget
Senior Member
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I guess ya'll are talking specifically about a BE, right?
smaceng
Jedi Knight
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It all depends on how the cut and rewelded shifter is positioned in the sheet metal cut out. Wait until you get everything else in the install is done, and check the fit. Most likely the shifter will hit the sheet metal. Open it up accordingly....and it will be good......60Frog is happy!
Scott in CA
Scott in CA
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Well the reason to cut that cover down is to keep from putting so much pressure on the shift lever. When modified it's not all that noticeable.
SD BE, I'm amazed that you don't have trouble with the stiff stock gaitor pushing the shift lever out of gear. The Datsun shift lever pivots much lower than stock.
BTW, I think I removed about the same as Trevor....memory.
Kurt.
I agree with everyone above- when you are welding it back together the total length of the shifter should be 7 to 8" long.
There are many different shifters that go into the 210 trans and they all start out different lengths (I have had MANY of them) but they all need to be cut down to about 8" long for the Spridget, both Bugeye and later need the same length.
BillM
There are many different shifters that go into the 210 trans and they all start out different lengths (I have had MANY of them) but they all need to be cut down to about 8" long for the Spridget, both Bugeye and later need the same length.
BillM
That's what I was talking about. Shortening the stick doesn't do anything to fix the interference unless it's also offset.
SD Bugeye
Jedi Warrior
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No issues one finger shifting here .
BMC and Leyland kept the domed cover though the mid 60's at least. Had a 68 parts car and that may have had it as well. I believe hey kept it only covered it with the naugahyde gaitor even later.
Kurt.
Gerard
Luke Skywalker
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The change to a gaiter was around mid to late 1972. I had a mid-year 72 that still had the can.
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Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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I thought it started with the face lift cars in 1970. I had a 69' parts car with the metal can, but my '70 had the vinyl boot. But these cars had already passed through several owners before I gained possession.