Hey Guest!
but were afraid to ask: 
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Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Oh well, guess I should have grabbed a few before. I wonder if anyone reproduces the Lucas version (which was used on some Stags)?
Not sure I follow you here. I still use bullets in most places (still using the original 1956 wiring harness too). But I'll continue to use up the Bosch-style relays, and of course use suitable quick connects to match them. I'm just not using the molded sockets.
Looking back, I'd have to say that the bullets (properly installed of course) are more reliable overall than the flat spade quick connects. I've had failures with both, but with the bullets it has always been (as best I can recall) the clip inside the sleeve that failed (or the ground clip screwed to the body). But several times now, I've had the quick connects get loose and either intermittently fail to make contact, or fall off entirely. Took me a long time to figure out why the Stag kept dropping out of overdrive; the ground wire to the solenoid was just loose enough that it sometimes wouldn't make contact while on the road. But of course it always worked perfectly while I was under the car trying to find the problem!
4 relays, one for each filament. That way I could have a separate circuit breaker for each side (so still one headlight working if a circuit breaker blows or fails), but only run one new wire to each headlight. Kind of an experiment really, to see how I like the arrangement. My previous setup had a single fuse & relay for both low beam filaments (plus another for both high beam filaments) and I decided I didn't like that after a fuse failed while going down a mountain at night. There hadn't been any short, just some invisible corrosion on the fuse holder clips that finally generated enough heat on the long drive to melt the solder inside the fuse.
I already did that, with the simple expedient of using the original starter solenoid to control the solenoid on the new starter. That way, the old under-hood push button still works as well. Comes in handy while running the valves or installing a fan belt. And it only took one new wire, from the solenoid down to the starter.
PS, if the new LED H4 headlight capsules work out, the relays will be more or less redundant. The LEDs draw less than 4 amps each, and have their own regulated power supply so won't be affected by a modest drop through the wiring.
"Life is a journey, not a destination." Or something like that anyway
