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Tips
Tips

Missing tool?

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Winston

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Hi Everybody,
My gearbox is leaking on the TR4a, and the fill plug is above the flange. I'm having trouble getting any reasonably sensible tool to work that will back the plug in and out.
I'm reluctant to pull the Fiberglass tunnel because I'd like to run the rest of the season without seizing up the gearbox.
I suppose I could pull the seat and tunnnel and........ but I would like to keep her on the road and I've found a nice core for the future.
Anybody have any Rube Goldberg suggestions.

Thanx
 
Cut a big round hole in the fiberglass tunnel that you can plug with an old rubber floor hole. Maybe that will give you enough room to work the plug out.

ISTR it takes a 7/16" 12 point socket on the square plug, doesn't it?.
 
I used a 7/16" 8-point socket (from Sears), plus a breaker bar to turn it and a pry bar to force and hold the socket down over the (mangled) square. Removing the tunnel is not an option on a Stag, and it's even tighter than a TR4 under there.

Then I replaced the plug with a hex socket plug from MMC. Now it's much easier to get out, even though you can't see the plug at all.

BTW, I also recommend PTFE pipe paste (not tape) on the plug. Available at Home Depot, etc. Not only helps seal the threads, but acts as anti-seize to make it easier to get out the next time. And unlike the tape, it doesn't form strings to possibly get loose inside and plug a passage somewhere.

MMC also sells magnetic hex socket plugs; which I like for drain plugs in engine, gearbox & diff.
 
Thank you Peter,
I have free hoist time at the local garage a couple of friday's from now and they'll have a 7/16" 12 point socket, if not they'll have one after I'm finished.
Appreciate the shortcut.
 
Winston said:
...they'll have a 7/16" 12 point socket...
Click to expand...

Repeating for emphasis what Randall said -- you'll want an 8-point socket (looks sorts like a star) to avoid rounding that plug off. If the plug is damaged... live large and replace it (less than a buck).

I use teflon tape but do use something, then it will seal without you thinking you need to crank it Gorilla tight.
 
If you go to a good used tool shop, you'll find a square-box wrench made specially for that plug. It's short, about seven inches long, and the opening will fit tightly around any decent square plug. This is a special wrench made just for this, and has the square box opening (four sides) only at one end. It's not a typical socket design nor an open end wrench; it's a closed square box.

The size of it allows you to operate in that little cramped space. I even have a backup tool--a square socket to use with a breaker bar. I think the square fittings may be the safest and grab more steel.
 
I have one of those, and no way will it get in there next to the flange on the gearbox. Plus, it's way too short for how tight the plugs were when I got the cars ... even a 1/2" ratchet wasn't enough !
 
Thanx for the replies...however, I found a 12 point 1/2" socket fit the very best FWIW.
The plug is on GORILLA tight and I have a rebuilt right shoulder(played a little ball back in the day), I can't budge that sqaure plug at all.
I've considered using my air ratchet but I really don't want to round off the plug, I can just imagine that mess.
Anymore suggestions out there?
Oh and welcome back Sammy B. I too have been somewhat distracted this summer, but I am getting alot of great windshield time.
As always , Thanx for the thoughts and suggestions.
 
Leverage, leverage, leverage.

Once you've got the socket on, get as long a breaker bar, or tubing on the ratchet handle as you can fit in.

Might try tightening the nut slightly first, then loosening it. This often helps to break the "seal" around the threads. And when you put the new plug back in, antiseize. As it is a pipe(tapered thread) plug.
 
Problem with that 12-point is that it doesn't reach as far down the flank of the square as a proper 8-point does. As you've discovered, the plug is extremely tight, and they typically aren't very hard (meaning they round easy). Air ratchet isn't going to budge it (although a good impact gun might have a chance).

As Ron says, you need more leverage. HF has a 24" breaker bar on sale (that won't even fit in my tool drawer); or 1" water pipe works well as a cheater. Somewhere, I've still got the 6' length of pipe I used to remove the lug nuts on my motorhome.
 
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