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Miss Agatha is the only one

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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that I have ever heard of that does not leak a drop. Not a single drop.

My fix worked to prefection. No more oil spots on friends brick drives nor do I need to park on a drip pan.

That is over 10 miles on the car since fix.
 
keep your mouth shut Jack - especially within Miss A's hearing. :nonono:
 
Miss Agatha loves it she is now welcome everywhere without embarsment.
 
You know, I had a '67 Triumph TR6C that everyone marvelled over because it leaked no oil. It was my first British bike and I used to rub it in to my Harley owner friends.

Sadly, my BE is a leaky, drippy little thing. Certainly not living up to the standard set by that old bike.

I have a project engine that I just started (the block is in for hot tanking as we speak). Care to share you tips for building a non-drippy engine?

Thanks!
BillW
 
livinginthepast said:
Care to share you tips for building a non-drippy engine?

Thanks!
BillW

easy - don't use oil. :jester:
 
You guys are bad.

The upper scroll seal needs to be within several thousands to the crankshaft,hot. Now to get it this close is kind of trickie. If you remember this is a peice of cast iron shaped like a "U". Useing a peice of glass and a very fine peice of sand paper sand the legs of the U till they are clear bright, should take maybe a dozen or so strokes, maybe as much as two dozen.

Now for the intresting part the holes, three of them for the bolts holding the seal to the block are just a bit larger than the bolts. Useing a large clamp made for wood working, after the bolts are in snugly but not tight, pull the seal down to the crank shaft, tighten bolts, safty wire. Hopefully you have not gotten it to tight but then if it is a real leaker this should not be too much.

Of course you understand that the bearing blocks including the upper scroll seal were line bored when the enging was manufactured. Over the years with rebuilds etc the crank wore a bit as well as the seal, or was polished by the rebuilder destroying the scroll seal tolerance. You know darn well it did not leak from the factory.

Don't forget a new gasket is cheep insurance. Make one from a heavy paper bag.
 
Went to add this info to the WIKI and it does not like me. Darn fancy programs.
 
Just remember, these LBC's can be like ornery felines.
They might just "hold" it for a while, and empty on your shoe.
 
Long before I owned a Sprite, I attended the conclave in Colorado Springs, (c.1982?). Donald Healey was in attendance, and someone asked him how to get Healeys to stop dripping oil. His reply was that when they stop dripping "it's time to top them up". He was also asked about the "dwell" for their runs on the salt flats and said that they "timed them by ear".

my 2 cents
 
Pythias said:
Long before I owned a Sprite, I attended the conclave in Colorado Springs, (c.1982?). Donald Healey was in attendance, and someone asked him how to get Healeys to stop dripping oil. His reply was that when they stop dripping "it's time to top them up".



Reminds me of a Marine who told me they always looked for dripping fluids under the old Hueys.
If it wasn't dripping they figured it was out of fluids and
would "insist" the fluids be checked before boarding.
 
Prudent Marine, IMO. :wink:
 
The reason I did not use a kit was that my fix was free. Free as the wind. Nothing but good old American know how applied to a British problem, not the first or last time that will happen I supose.
 
Added my info to the WIKI, please feel free to clean it up.
 
Jack
You are messing with things that should not be fooled around with; you could mess up things for the rest of us! We could all loose faith in the tried and true method of checked the oil.
 

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Way to go Jack! Good old American know how is my favorite kind of know how!
 
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