Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
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Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Was afraid we'd hear that....
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jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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Read and understand before starting.
The previous owner of my Sprite decided that a PCV valve was a "bad thing" and removed it as well as the hose leading from the oil separator mounted on the timing cover. Since the engine was in need of serious repair (2 exhaust valves leaking, >0.010 cylinder taper, flat cam lobes, etc), consequently there was considerable blow-by with no place to go except out the front cover, rear main, and every other seal on the engine. When pressure would build up, about a pint of oil at a time would blurb out the open orifice in the oil separator, all over the front of the engine and engine compartment. The moral to this story is that one should expect an engine to leak oil if 1) the crankcase ventilation system is not working properly and/or 2) excessive blow-by is present. On a 1098 or 1275cc engine, the idle RPMs should rise if the oil filler cap is removed (from my shop manual), thus indicating a vacuum on the crankcase was present before removal of the cap (assumed). If your car does not pass this test, you need to find out why and fix it or buy a big bag of oil dry and a case of oil to put in the trunk.
Installing the rear main cap cover correctly:
When overhauling an engine, it is not absolutely necessary to disturb the positioning of the rear main cap cover. I chose to remove mine due to concerns about destroying the cover-to-block gasket material during hot-tanking of the block. I left this cover off while checking bearing clearances with plastiguage. I then removed the crank and installed the rear cover/cover-to-block gasket in the following manner. After coating the gasket on both sides with Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket #3H I positioned the cover and tightened the three bolts firmly to squeeze out excess sealer before loosening them up a little so the cover could be moved around as much as the bolt holes would allow. I placed the crankshaft on the lubricated bearings and pushed the rear cover tightly against the crankshaft sealing surface before tightening the rear cover bolts to approximately 1/2 final torque. This exactly centers the rear cover, but leaves the rear cover too deep against the crank. (When the main cap is installed, the rear cover will be pushed away from the crankshaft sealing surface the proper distance). I then installed the rear main cap (with lubricated bearing) and torqued it to specifications before tightening the rear cover bolts to final torque. The crankshaft should spin freely without any rubbing on the rear cover. If not, the adjustment sequence will have to be repeated. After removing the rear main cap again and cleaning the cap mating surfaces with carburetor cleaner on a rag, I coated part of the rear main surface on the block from the "oil sealing surface" on the crank out to the edge of where the rear main cap would fit with Form-a-Gasket #3H, being careful not to use too much. All main caps were then installed and torqued to specifications.
The previous owner of my Sprite decided that a PCV valve was a "bad thing" and removed it as well as the hose leading from the oil separator mounted on the timing cover. Since the engine was in need of serious repair (2 exhaust valves leaking, >0.010 cylinder taper, flat cam lobes, etc), consequently there was considerable blow-by with no place to go except out the front cover, rear main, and every other seal on the engine. When pressure would build up, about a pint of oil at a time would blurb out the open orifice in the oil separator, all over the front of the engine and engine compartment. The moral to this story is that one should expect an engine to leak oil if 1) the crankcase ventilation system is not working properly and/or 2) excessive blow-by is present. On a 1098 or 1275cc engine, the idle RPMs should rise if the oil filler cap is removed (from my shop manual), thus indicating a vacuum on the crankcase was present before removal of the cap (assumed). If your car does not pass this test, you need to find out why and fix it or buy a big bag of oil dry and a case of oil to put in the trunk.
Installing the rear main cap cover correctly:
When overhauling an engine, it is not absolutely necessary to disturb the positioning of the rear main cap cover. I chose to remove mine due to concerns about destroying the cover-to-block gasket material during hot-tanking of the block. I left this cover off while checking bearing clearances with plastiguage. I then removed the crank and installed the rear cover/cover-to-block gasket in the following manner. After coating the gasket on both sides with Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket #3H I positioned the cover and tightened the three bolts firmly to squeeze out excess sealer before loosening them up a little so the cover could be moved around as much as the bolt holes would allow. I placed the crankshaft on the lubricated bearings and pushed the rear cover tightly against the crankshaft sealing surface before tightening the rear cover bolts to approximately 1/2 final torque. This exactly centers the rear cover, but leaves the rear cover too deep against the crank. (When the main cap is installed, the rear cover will be pushed away from the crankshaft sealing surface the proper distance). I then installed the rear main cap (with lubricated bearing) and torqued it to specifications before tightening the rear cover bolts to final torque. The crankshaft should spin freely without any rubbing on the rear cover. If not, the adjustment sequence will have to be repeated. After removing the rear main cap again and cleaning the cap mating surfaces with carburetor cleaner on a rag, I coated part of the rear main surface on the block from the "oil sealing surface" on the crank out to the edge of where the rear main cap would fit with Form-a-Gasket #3H, being careful not to use too much. All main caps were then installed and torqued to specifications.
OP
jhorton3
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Thanks for the information Jack. I've stumbled upon something to check out when I get home. An article I read talked about the 1275 PCV system. It states the black plastic oil filler cap has the hole in the center to allow air into the system. The reason being is because the 1275 rocker cover does not have a breather tube. I checked a picture of Ray's car and it does not have the tube. Guess what? Mine has it. So now I'm thinking there's too much air entering the system and not enough negative pressure is being created. I'm going to find a way to plug that breather tube tonight and see if that slows down the leak.
OP
jhorton3
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Fitted a cap to the end of that breather tube. Took it out for a 15-20 minute run. She did better in the acceleration department. Pulled in the driveway and I see the dripping behind me. Stop the car in the garage with the engine running and check underneath. Oil dripping out of the hole in the transmission constantly. Shut it off and keep checking. The transmission literally peed a puddle of oil as big as a IHOP pancake in about 30 seconds.
Verdict...motor will be pulled.
Verdict...motor will be pulled.
OP
jhorton3
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Long post warning guys, but great news. I believe I fixed the oil leak! I came across this fellow's post this afternoon talking about the same thing and how he'd resolved it. He bought a PCV valve from Autozone as I did and that fixed his. It was a 90 degree angle unit like I have. Luckily he had a picture of it installed on his web site. It was then I realized I've had the blasted thing on backward! Yes, Jim's a stupid git! Also read about someone's valve cover and the breather tube that has a 1/16" hole in the center. The one I had fitted was about 1/2" in diameter, but the old green one had the 1/16" hole.
I rushed home today and reversed the connection of the PCV valve. Then I cleaned up the old valve cover and put it on with the original cap. Topped the engine up with oil and fired it up. Three minutes of running and not a single drop out of the hole. OK, now I'm feeling brave. So I take a trip down the road. Guess I had some oil caught in the valve as it smoked a couple of times here and there, but then cleared up. After about 5 miles I pulled over in a parking lot and looked underneath. No leaks. Drive for another 5-7 miles. Pull in the drive, no oil trail. Park and look underneath with the motor running, no leaks. Turned it off and looked after about 10 minutes, maybe a drop or two if that.
So if this keeps up maybe I can actually work on getting the running smoothed out, and on to other things, like fitting the soft top back on.
I rushed home today and reversed the connection of the PCV valve. Then I cleaned up the old valve cover and put it on with the original cap. Topped the engine up with oil and fired it up. Three minutes of running and not a single drop out of the hole. OK, now I'm feeling brave. So I take a trip down the road. Guess I had some oil caught in the valve as it smoked a couple of times here and there, but then cleared up. After about 5 miles I pulled over in a parking lot and looked underneath. No leaks. Drive for another 5-7 miles. Pull in the drive, no oil trail. Park and look underneath with the motor running, no leaks. Turned it off and looked after about 10 minutes, maybe a drop or two if that.
So if this keeps up maybe I can actually work on getting the running smoothed out, and on to other things, like fitting the soft top back on.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
WOW!! Great - but how did the oil get to the inside of the bell housing? & did it do any damage getting there?
OP
jhorton3
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I think it still came from the scroll seal area. Somehow when the motor ran there was a little bit of vacuum created but not enough. When the motor stopped so the the pressure. I guess it's like inhaling and exhaling, only when it exhaled it gushed oil out the scroll seal and into the bellhousing. Honestly, I think I got lucky this time around.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I'd watch that rear seal though.
