Miata seat prep continues

[Brosky]

Now that the trim is in, I decided to keep following BobbyD's path to do these right.

This morning was a good time to get rid of the Hog Rings the easy way and get the seat cushion pans ready for paint with some POR15 Rust Remover.

A few applications of this stuff, a few hits with a Scotch Brite Pad and brass brush and we're ready for paint as soon as the cracks and crevices dry.

These bad boys get rid of the Hog Rings in about two seconds each, with no effort at all.

A few before shots. This is the passenger seat. The drivers was worse, but no rust through, just surface coated.

Much better to cut the rings, move the seat cushions back and get all of the sides done as well.

Be smart if you ever use this chemical and wear gloves and eye protection. Oh yeah, ventilation helps too. It is acid based and smells a lot like Dupont Metal Prep we used in the 60-70's at the dealership. That stuff was green at the time. I should remember it, because I hated it and the smell that it left on your hands and what it did to your skin before we were smart enough to protect ourselves.

First coat on and ready for Scotch Brite.

After two coats, Scotch Brites, small wood handle brass brush once over the cracks and a soap and water wash down.

Now for some drying time and the paint will go on later today.

 

[martx-5]

The Miata seats are nice...I have them in my '92. :laugh:

 

[NutmegCT]

Paul - that is excellent. Thanks for the illustrated step-by-step. That Metal Ready looks like powerful stuff.

Tom

 

[DNK]

Don't follow that Paul. Why not remove all of it ?
I thought you where gonna have them redone anyway.

 

[Brosky]

Don,

I'm lazy for one and the tops of the trays are all shiny with no rust. Secondly, the upholsterer said to leave everything as until I bring them in. He will clean and lube the tilt mechanisms when he replaces the covers.

Once I get them back, I'll re-tap the junk out of the threads and put the tracks back on.

 

[DNK]

OK Doke

 

[tdskip]

I'm eager to see how this comes together Paul.

 

[Brosky]

I am too, Tom.

I'm still undecided about putting the roll and pleat pattern down the middle of the seat back and cushion as a throwback to the TR6. Part of me says yes, the other part says why bother, go modern. I'll probably flip a coin the day that I take them in.

This picture of the pans with the second coat of Rustoleum applied. That will do it until they come back from the shop.

Seat tracks are all cleaned and degreased and straightened to fit the adapter kit. Now I have to cut off the studs and grind down a few ridges and paint those guys. Then a re-lube of the rollers and tracks and they'll be ready.

 

[tdskip]

Looking good Paul

 

[Brosky]

Seats are at the shop as we speak. Material for headrests going out for perforation.

We checked the speakers and they've been hacked, so out they'll go. I just ordered a new set of upgraded Millenium's like BobbyD used in his.

The original padding is very good, but he will be supplementing it with additional foam.

I am going with the roll and pleat design in the center back and cushion.

 

[tdskip]

You're rolling now Paul - when do you think they'll be finished with them? I'm antsy to see them (in a good way) and they're not even my seats!

 

[Brosky]

I called the shop to tell him that I have some new speakers coming and he told me that the perforated material will be back next week. I'll have the speakers late this week, so things are looking a lot better than a week and a half ago when I didn't even have seats.

I'll be picking up the tracks for the body shop tonight.

 

[Brosky]

Picked up tracks and they are just about ready for paint. Two key things that you need to do, which I confirmed with Bob. All four (4) of the ends need to have the raised portion ground down to allow a flush fit with the adapter rails and the stud should stay above the surface of the track. The stud also is a big rivet which if cut flush with the track, might weaken and come loose. Staying just above allows it to hold the front section securely on the track itself.

 

[DNK]

Paul- You got a before and after of those tracks,the grinding

 

[Brosky]

Sure do Don. I'll post them tonight when I get home. You can see it in these, but not that clearly. I think that I have better pics at home.

 

[hondo402000]

Hey Paul why dont you put the seat covers on yourself? I did mine a few years ago. I searched the web and found a great detailed article on how to do it and purchased leather seat covers from Katskins, it was really easy I bet you could do it

Hondo

 

[Brosky]

I could have pulled them off easily, but there was no need. I did lift the seat cushions and foam completely off the pans to check them up top. The upper pans were rust free and shiny. The shop will be using the covers to make patterns to cut the new seat covers, so he prefers to do it himself and do the disassembly there.

I will go over with the speakers and wires when he is ready and install them and test them before it's all buttoned up.

Speakers came today. I didn't know the company was in Mass, not that far from me.

 

[hondo402000]

Paul
if the head rest are the only speakers you have in the car then you can hear them, but if you have additional speakers behind the seats, the head rest speakers are useless, at least thats what I found out and with the top down, might be different with the top up

Hondo

 

[Brosky]

Hondo,

BobbyD claims that with these new Millenium speakers (he recommended them) that he is eliminating his speakers behind the seats because these sound so well with the top down and on the highway. I still have my front speakers and will be using them as well.

 

[tdskip]

Any more updates or pics Paul?