• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

MGB-GT MGB GT Bodywork Websites

Share this page

vping

vping

Yoda
Silver
Country flag
Offline
I'm looking for a good website that chronicles the removal & replacement of GT body panels.

What the car needs it this:

Hood - I'll get a new or used one.
Lower Fenders - I'll look for used unless patching is recommended.
Inner & outer rockers
Castles
Rear doglegs
Front half of passenger floor.
Passenger jacking point.
The trunk floor is OK but needs a few small holes patched.

I don't know what I am in for but willing to learn & try.

My first worry is how to support the car while cutting out the bad and welding in the good.

MG tip of the day. Don't park your car on the grass for 10 years.
 
We'll have to talk and you'll have to send me pictures. I think this is the car I'd like to try myself.
 
This'n only sat fer five inna grass... Guess I got lucky. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Why? Was yours not as bad as mine? What did you replace.
 
Ummm... 'bout everything 'below th' waterline'!

Floorpans, sills, doglegs in the back:




275712-left6.JPG


Apologies for the "bloated" image before this...
 
At least you know what you might get into. This is what I saw when I bought my GT (After a lot of washing mind you:
DSC01195Small.jpg

MGB_dsc01280.jpg

DSC01295Small.jpg


Only to find, well... a lot of reconstructive surgery needed
 
[ QUOTE ]
Ummm... 'bout everything 'below th' waterline'!
Floorpans, sills, doglegs in the back:

[/ QUOTE ]

Ja do the werk yerself doc or send it to a shop.? I think I can handle it, with a little practice but not quite sure how to support the body so that it does not flex. I think if just on jack stands it should be ok right?
 
Did mine inna driveway. It was NOT a "total restore" but a "rebuild". No welding. It wasn't that "shot" that it required inner sills.

You'll want more support than jack stands, methinks. You'll need to keep the "geometry" in spec. In most cases you can support the chassis in several places along each side with screw-type stands (makes raising/lowering in increments easy) and drop plumb lines to the floor from chassis reference points, as reference for keeping it straight 'n level. You'll need to be a bit "creative" with the "Solid Geometry" but it's do-able. Did my Elan chassis by anchoring 1/2" steel plates to the concrete garage floor on all-thread!
 
I didn't need to use any braces for mine and your's is a GT also, so if you don't NEED to replace the entire sill on either side, you should be OK. I just needed to cut the front foot or so from each sill and weld on an extension. The parts are available, but I just fabricated my own. I have had mine on jack stands only, and added one in the middle of the sill when I was doing the sill work. At the stage I am at now, and I put the doors in and measure, the car is perfectly aligned, or as good as it was before.
I will send you my Photobucket link if you wish.

Paul
 
I'm in the process of researching sill work on my B. Here are some helpful links I've found..some from folks on this forum and, um...even this thread! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
- Tim


https://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&p=emg/sillrepa.htm

https://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline/0500/dogleg.html


https://www.mgplace.com/members/articles/show_article.php?article_type_id=1&article_id=2

https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v164/KLUTZP/GT%20Restoration%20Pics/?sc=3

https://www.miller-garage.com/GHN3L131923_sill.php

https://www.angelfire.com/blues2/mgbv8/Page3.html

https://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jdterhune/my_photos

https://www.mzaff.com/1977repairs.htm

https://edsdreamgarage.ebro2.com/edbrodyjr/MGBSillRepair.html

https://www.middlebank.co.uk/Sills.htm


https://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/
 
KLUTZ Wrote:
[ QUOTE ]
I have had mine on jack stands only, and added one in the middle of the sill when I was doing the sill work.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's what I'm talkin' about... and with screw style jack stands you can be "finnikey"... May be Overkill, but it's always nice to have OPTIONS. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
I'll always be amazed that you guys tackle those things! Down here, we automatically call them "parts cars" as there's so many better ones around.

(& I say it admiringly!)
 
Get yerself a copy of Porter's Guide to DIY restoration (Vol 1). Good reference for sill replacement.

I've done floors, inner/outer/lower sills, castles, doglegs, fender trumpets, fender channels, doorskins (the worst of all) you name it.

I took a night class at the local community college to learn to MIG weld (whilst going to grad school for my MBA, but that another story, not married no kids at the time).

Just takes lots of patience, some decent tools and, did I mention patience?

The Harbor Freight catalog will be your best friend. Consider buying a nice MIG welder (Miller/Hobart) if you're going to do a couple of cars.
 
Went to a couple a sites listed above. Very comparable work I need to do to the new GT. I have a Lincoln MIG and have been futsin' with it for about a year now. Next on the list is the porter or the haynes book for resto. I don't want to "restore" it but at least want it solid again.
 
The car I bought from you Tony, was a parts car. There were parts everywhere!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
& look how nicely they went together!
 
Exactly Tony!
 
On a gt you really don't need to worry too much about flexing as long as you only cut into one side at a time. The roof adds a lot of support, and on the two gt's that I've done floors/sills/rockers on I've never noticed any flexing, even with all the metal removed right up to the center tunnel. On one car I even replaced the center crossmember. The key procedure is to refit the doors prior to final welding and make sure it fits. Carl Heideman at Eclectic Motorworks (https://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/) states: "We do not brace the door openings as we do this--we want them to be adjustable at this point so that we can get the doors and fenders aligned perfectly. Before welding new panels in, we refit the doors and fenders and begin adjusting gaps." If you can weld, or learn to weld, this job is mainly just a lot of hard work. My only other advice is protect your eyes and ears, and have fun!
 
Back
Top