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MGB MGB Front Crossmember Removal

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DJThom

Jedi Hopeful
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This topic may have been covered, but I didn't see anyting when I searched.

Can the front crossmember be removed in an MGB while the engine is in the car? Just curious whether the lack of cross support in the chassis would cause severe and undesirable issues.
 
I have dropped the crossmember without any problems. I found it much easier to disconnect the rack before dropping it out. The engine is supported by the chassis, so no issues there.
 
OK, thx. I'm lowering my RB (thanks for the parts Tony!) and have never really had the front suspension apart to clean etc. so I thought I'd do a thorough job while I was at it.
 
Yep, real easy to do it...remove all the bolts holding the steering to the beam, remove the bolts holding the sway bar to the body, remove the front brake lines, undo the 4 bolts & she'll drop straight out!
 
You don't have to take the crossmember off to rebuild the suspension. In fact, it's easier to do with the crossmember on the car. Of course if you want to replace the crossmember pads or simply clean and paint it, then it isn't very difficult to remove. However it's much lighter (and easier) if you remove and install it with the suspension components removed.
 
How easy is it to line back up?
 
Easy! Just slide it under the car on a floor jack, line up one bolt hole, drop a bolt in and swing it a little to get a bolt in the other side. Once all bolts are in, it lines itself up. Might be an easer way but that's how I do it. PJ
 
I agree with Steve - remove the entire crossmember...disassemble it on the bench, paint crossmember & replace it stripped (with new pads)...then build the new suspension under the car.

I've taken them out fully loaded, rebuilt on bench & reinstaleld fully loaded - & done it stripped....stripped is the way to go!!
 
If the crossmember is bare, it's very easy to reinstall. If it's fully built, it's a pain. Getting the pair of bolts through the inner holes is near impossible with the coil springs in place, and the complete unit weighs a ton!
 
I agree, I agree! I didn't know better and installed it fully loaded. Even had the disks and calipers in place. Once I got it on the floor jack , by using an engine hoist, it wasn't all that bad. The first bolt was touchy, the rest went right in. I built a cradle to stick in the end of the jack and clamped it using the two holes in the bottom of the cross member. Couldn't go anywhere. Wouldn't do it that way again though.
 
I removed two full and it was simple. I can see where putting it back in is not so easy.
 
I've got the crossmember off, stripped and painted. Looks great, but I was a bit careless and didn't watch close enough when I took it apart.

The new urethane pad set I have has 8 parts: 4 upper and 4 lower. 6 of these are identical and have a raised lip around the through hole. 2 are perfectly flat squares without this lip.

To further complicate, Moss catalogue says the RB cars only need two upper and two lower pads.

I'm confident someone can help sort this out. Thanks
Darren
 
Also, is it best to tighten the lower nuts first, put the bolts through/line it up, and then lock it up from the top, or vice versa?
 
There should be four lipped pads and four flat pads. Lipped pads go on top with the lip protruding into the cross member. Flat pads on bottom with steel support plates underneath.

I've found it easiest to have the top nuts already installed, then tighten the bottom. Final torque is probably easiest from the top. However I have not done this job on a late model car so your mileage may vary!
 
Thanks Steve

I wonder if the later RB cars ended up having two lipped pads facing one another in light of the extra spacing put in the crossbar? I'll try as you suggest and tighten from below.
 
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