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T-Series MGA 1500 trany switch to 1600

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magooster

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I have embarked on a bigger project than I imagined. I am attempting to install a rebuilt 1600 high starter trany, into my 1500 MGa which has the lower starter unit. I have the needed parts, 1600 engine plate, 1600 trany cover.

I have the eng. and trany out and in the process of removing floor boards to get to the 1500 transmission cover for removal and replacing with the 1600 cover. A few of the floor screws are stuck from rust and refuse to budge. Cutting the other wise good floors out seems to be the only option at this point. So far I have only been working on the passenger side and still have to wrestle with the drivers side.

My question is, has anyone successfully made this swap by just
modifying the 1500 floor boards to accept the higher starter.
I don't mind cutting a floor corner out and cutting a bit of the 1500 trany cover off if it means I can leave the old floors and trany cover in the car. Floors are really in good
condition other than a screw or 2 being stuck so I would rather leave them in place if possible.
 
If so, (and I keep thinking Triumph and Jag, which are Fibreglas), heat the heads up as hot as you can get them without melting any metal (real fine tip on your torch), when coole enough, but not cold, use ZEP45 or PBBlaster underneat on the exposed threads to wick in, and try it again.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I really prefer not to remove the floorboards at this point and would rather keep the original
parts and modify those. The floorboards are wood, so too much heat could be disastorous. We'll see if anyone else chimes in with any proven modifications. So far I'm getting skunked.
 
So, the stuck screws are into wood, and not a metal frame around the wood?

Last MGA I worked on was...1980, I think, so it's been a while.
If these are wood screws and stuck, it's rust doing it, what kind of penetrant have to used to date?
 
The floor boards are out, PITA. I had to chisle around some of the screws to get the boards out ,and vise griped the screws that refused to move. The original tunnel should come out with a bit of an effort and the 1600 tunnel will be fit up soon. One huge possitive that I can see having all these items out of the way is the possibility of fitting the engine and trany back in place as one unit rather than each one going in seperately. At least that is how I am persieving it at this time. It sure looks doable at this point. I wasn't planning on making new floor boards but
that should be pretty simple compared to getting the friggin things out. That was more sweat equity than I wanted to offer at this stage of the game. Now I can get back to the
engine reassembly and cleaning up the engine bay/ trany area.
That is a hole lot of oil from that leaky 1500 trany. But
it sure kept the rust bug away. Magooster.
 
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