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T-Series MG TC Steering

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Dalekall

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MGTC Help Please, The steering in my new (old) TC has a wandering problem. I have taken all the free play out, the king pins have a very small amount of play, the tires are old but decent, the wheels are straight, The car tracks well but it will wander over the road. I cannot believe the car was designed this way, I have a TF and have driven TD's,As, & Bs. They are all very stable but this car has its own adgenda. Can you Help!!!!
 
I have not found adjustments for caster on this car, I imagine there is someway but I guess I need more guidance. Thanks for the response
 
Dalekall said:
MGTC Help Please, The steering in my new (old) TC has a wandering problem. I have taken all the free play out, the king pins have a very small amount of play, the tires are old but decent, the wheels are straight, The car tracks well but it will wander over the road. I cannot believe the car was designed this way, I have a TF and have driven TD's,As, & Bs. They are all very stable but this car has its own adgenda. Can you Help!!!!
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are they radials or bias ply tires?
 
A TC is never going to be as stable as a TD, TF or MGA, due in part to th every skinny tires. I doubt very seriously that any tire for the TC is going to be radial, which just adds to the problem - bias ply tires will try to follow any irregularity or discontinuity in the pavement. Even the normally stable TD, TF and MGA suffers from the same problem when shod with the OE bias ply tires.
Cheers,
 
Make sure tow in is properly set. Tow in on a straight axle is different than on the later cars. Caster can be changed by means of wedge shims between the axle and springs. If the king pins are perfectly vertical, it will always wander. JMHO. PJ
 
Thanks All for the suggestions, I will have to find a manual for settings for caster and camber. I did not know about the shims but will look into that answer, I am using bias tires as that is what is available, I am going to install new tires but I want to get this steering straightened out 1st. It is fun
 
How much play is there in the steering wheel before the wheels start to move when sitting still?? It's also possible that the worm/peg in the box is worn and needs reconditioning.
 
I have removed all the free play at standstill,it steers very quick as it should but I do think that the caster is not quite right. Thanks for the reply
 
Dalekall said:
Thanks All for the suggestions, I will have to find a manual for settings for caster and camber.<span style="font-size: 11pt"> <span style="color: #CC0000">I</span><span style="color: #CC0000"> did not know</span> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="color: #CC0000">about the shims</span> </span>but will look into that answer, I am using bias tires as that is what is available, I am going to install new tires but I want to get this steering straightened out 1st. It is fun
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A pic of one style of a shim wedge, they come in varying thicknesses for different angles. PJ


 
Thanks Paul, Can you tell me where you picked up the photo of the wedge, I think I will need further instructions as to where to get them and how they fit in. I am hoping to replace the king pins also. Dale
 
While I am not experienced with TCs, I know that specialists in tricking out 4x4s for offroad use will usually have wedges. You can also make your own by cutting wedges off an aluminum block with a bandsaw. Part of your problem may be sagging springs
Bob
 
Dalekall said:
Thanks Paul, Can you tell me where you picked up the photo of the wedge, I think I will need further instructions as to where to get them and how they fit in. I am hoping to replace the king pins also. Dale
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Dale, Ingalls Engineering, This should take you to their site.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Spri...s&FORM=O1FD

Their wedges come in sizes from 1/2 degree to 4 degrees. They can be adjusted for three spring widths, nice feature most don't have. There are others out there who make thicker wedges, but in my opinion, if you need to rotate the axle more than 4 degrees, there's another problem lurking in the bushes. PJ
 
They are held in place by the bolt that holds the leaves of the spring together, which fits thru the hole in the shim and then into the hole in the axle pad. You may have to fabricate a new bolt to get the length needed to reach thru the whole stack.
Bob
 
bobhustead said:
They are held in place by the bolt that holds the leaves of the spring together, which fits thru the hole in the shim and then into the hole in the axle pad. You may have to fabricate a new bolt to get the length needed to reach thru the whole stack.
Bob
Click to expand...

The center spring bolt only has to be changed if the head is not long enough to pass through the wedge hole and enter the hole in the spring perch bracket. In that case, a bolt with a longer head is in order. The wedge is kept from moving for and aft by the head of the spring leaf bolt, it is locked in place by the U bolts passing along side. This is why you must make sure the wedge is the same width as the spring so a snug fit between the U bolts is in effect. You don't bolt the wedge to the spring using the leaf bolt. We used wedges years ago building and modifying race cars, before they had ratchet/crank adjusters. We even made our own wedges. PJ
 
I am very greatful for all the responses that I have received, this car is very different from my other cars, and I did not have a clue as to solving this problem. I purchased this car for my wife to drive along with me to some events (she said why should I have all the fun) rightfully so but I have worked out some of the wonder but not all and it is a bit disconcerting. Not major but I cannot believe that this car was built for fun driving and the model was used on several tracks with a problem like that. I have found that the camber on the right side measures a half inch different than the left so that cannot be right. With all of your help I will get it right. Thanks ever so much, great web site. Dale
 
Dale, With the camber on one side different than the other, are you saying you have a bent axle? If so, that can be rectified using a hydraulic press and cold bending it back to the proper position, after critical measurements are obtained. Not a difficult job. Axle must come out of course. PJ
 
Again Thanks for the thoughts, I do not believe the axle is bent, I will have to see how the shims are on each side. I suspect at sometime or other someone did not adjust the camber properly. The Kingpins are another matter, the play on both front wheels is about the same and it is for sure going to be addressed. Dale
 
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