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Metric or US Standard Threads?

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Ohiobugeye

Ohiobugeye

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Questions, Questions. On the 1275 Block are the threads for the oil pressure gauge attachment and the temp gauge hole Metric or US Standard? I'm using after market gauges and the threads are US Standard.Both seem to thread in easily, perhaps to easily. Also I'm using a standard Bugeye radiator and have the option of using the block or the radiator to connect the heat gauge bulb to, any suggestions on where to install it?
Thanks, Don
 
I do not believe that the 1275 engines had any metric threads. Exactly what those threads are, I do not know. A bunch of straight British pipe threads are used on our cars.
Scott in CA
 
Install the temp gauge bulb into the head.

The threads on the oil are probably BSPP. But I'm guessing.
 
Does the Bugeye style temp gauge fit into the boss in the head? I've got that decision to make soon as well.
 
Ohiobugeye said:
Questions, Questions. On the 1275 Block are the threads for the oil pressure gauge attachment and the temp gauge hole Metric or US Standard? I'm using after market gauges and the threads are US Standard.Both seem to thread in easily, perhaps to easily. Also I'm using a standard Bugeye radiator and have the option of using the block or the radiator to connect the heat gauge bulb to, any suggestions on where to install it?
Thanks, Don
Click to expand...
One thing I found when I changed the bulb and capillary tube on the midget was that the newer aftermarket bulb was too long and went in and hit inside before the fitting got tight and the seal was made. What I found was that by putting a ferrel off of a brass 3/8 tubbing on the bulb it took up the slack and kept the bulb from going in too far and allowed the seal to work. The ferrel made the perfect spacer. Don't know if this helps but just thought I would throw it out there.
 
Thanks to all for the information, always pays to double check. Thanks Again, Don
 
drooartz said:
Does the Bugeye style temp gauge fit into the boss in the head? I've got that decision to make soon as well.
Click to expand...
Yes, but I believe you need an adapter... If I remember correctly the bulb would bottom out with out it. At least that's what I remember when I switched mine from the radiator to the head.
cd
 
Just to teach the ignorant, why do you want the temp sensor in the head rather than the radiator for a BE 1275? I am using a high capacity pump, late model yellow platic fan and the BE down flow radiator.
Scott in CA
 
Are you interested in the head temperature of the radiator temperature? There is always a difference (esp if the thermostat sticks shut)
 
Like to make a point here. Except for the unlikely event of a stuck thermostat how much difference is a few degrees on a not necessarily accurate temp guage really going to make? You need to know your rad caps pressure and what that will do to your boiling point anyway to determine exactly where its going to boil.
Also like to point out that the cappillary tube to the bulb will work harden over time.
For that reason I like to keep it away from any unnecessary vibration.
I think the rad is a fine place for the bulb.
KA
 
Being that I am using a after market temp gauge and capillary unit I wasn't sure if the bulb would reach to the radiator. As it turned out the capillary reaches both locations, the head and the radiator. I will probably go with the radiator. Do the 1275 Spridgets have the bulb in the head or the radiator?
 
1275's have the bulb in the head.
What about a water pump/belt failure? The head temperature will show up sooner than the radiator.
I'm sure either is fine, but I use the bung in the radiator to switch my electric fan on/off.
 
This is one of those either or solutions. It really makes no difference at all.

Chances are that if you overheat you will not see it till it is hot at the radiator in any case. How much time do you spend watching the little needle?
 
I check my instruments quite frequently, but that comes from years of driving unreliable cars. :wink:
 
I switched to head location just so I knew what temp the engine was actually running at... As an added benefit if I need to pull the radiator - it's one less thing to remove.
cd
 
I agree with cd! on both points, though Jack is right, it is an either/or! I have a VW alum. radiator, so the head was easier!
 
cdsmith said:
I switched to head location just so I knew what temp the engine was actually running at.
cd
Click to expand...

He said a mouthfull there, think about it, you want to know what the temp is at the head, the hottest point on the system, not the radiator, the cooliest point on the system
 
For raceing I would agree with you Hap, no question.

Not sure I think it is of any great importance for us street guys. After all we don't check the water temp and oil pressure at the end of each lap or more often.
 
I have one eye on that gauge set CONSTANTLY, Jack!! :jester:

...and drive with fingers crossed an' a rabbits foot in me pocket. :wink:
 
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