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Method of breaking stuck clutch disc free?

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K

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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TR4A has been sitting for 25 years. Changed oil...fresh gas..fired up engine and runs fine. I'm going to go thru the clutch hydraulics first and drain and refill the gearbox. I was planning on pulling the trans in situ to check out the clutch but now I'm thinking I might just try freeing the clutch up.Might still be functional as the engine sure was. I'm assuming it will be stuck after sitting for so long. What was the procedure for freeing up the disc from the flywheel.
 
I wouldn't even assume it's stuck; mine wasn't after some 30 years of storage.

Then I changed it when I swapped in the OD gearbox from the other car, and it got stuck in just a week or two
grin.gif


Lots of valid techniques; mine is to just drive the car a bit while holding the clutch released. For me, it broke loose before I got out of the driveway. But if a few full-throttle stints hadn't got it loose, I probably just would have pulled it again, especially with an IRS car. The stronger shock techniques (like revving it up in gear and knocking it off the jack) can't be good for the driveline or diff mounts. YMMV.
 
Mine was 28 years in a barn. Redid the hydraulics started her up and the clutch disengaged straight away. Still OK after 3 years back on the road.
 
My 4A sat 15 years. After I did hydraulics took off out of the garage in first, on and off gas for 100 yards or so and it broke free. I was suprised! Kept going for first ride on 1 gallon in the tank.
I had not found this forum at the time but did find this article:

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_104.htm
His dramatic approach sounds like a hoot...with your car. :devilgrin:
 
I put the rear of my car on jackstands, started it in gear (clutch was stuck) and locked the brakes a couple of times. maybe I was lucky.
 
TR clutches are not that bad to stick like MG or Jag. Why, couldn't tell you. Plan a route you can drive in case it doesn't break loose. Position car so when it does crank in gear you won't be hitting or dodging anything. If the car will do so, crank it in 3rd gear ( second, if you have too), after its going good, push in on the clutch and hit the gas a couple of times. Make sure you are on pavement or concrete, trust me, it won't break on grass or gravel. You could have someone pull you, car in gear with clutch depressed. You may have to do it a couple of times at most but I haven't have one that didn't break loose.

Good luck
Marv
 
I had a VW Rabbit that we used infrequently and its clutch would seize to the flywheel after a month or so of sitting. I used the second method on the MGA Gurus site (Randall's method) when necessary to break the bond. It worked every time but would often require 100 feet or more of road for results.

Hopefully your TR's clutch won't be stuck and this won't be necessary. I've never had this happen with my British cars.
 
dklawson said:
It worked every time but would often require 100 feet or more of road for results.
Click to expand...
Just a side comment; I consider being able to drive without a clutch a required skill for LBC ownership. Sooner or later, you're going to lose your clutch hydraulics while out on the road, and this is how you get home. I can't count how many times I've done it.

And not just in the TR for that matter. My Chevy had a cable operated clutch and the cable would wear out and break every 80,000 miles or so. I'd just stop at the parts store on the way home to pick up a new one.

Also useful when the TOB failed on the TR, and seized to the front cover.

My "most memorable" was when a buddy & I had driven our LBCs from IN down to SC somewhere (Charleston maybe). The bolts in my clutch slave worked loose, but I was following him and couldn't get his attention to pull over. Had no idea where he was going (long before cell phones), so losing him would have been a real problem. I spent what seemed like hours struggling to follow him with my clutch not working and furiously blinking my headlights every chance I got. But it was probably actually only about 15 minutes before he thought to check if I was behind him, and finally pulled over.

That was the same trip where his MGA caught fire; a victim of trying to mount a negative ground CB radio in a positive ground British car. Somehow, he failed to realize that the antenna mount was connected to the negative lead of the radio; and his rear bumper was so rusty that it worked at first.
 
I was test driving the Mini one evening. A nut that I'd failed to tighten fell into the shift linkage and jammed the car in 3rd gear. I made the mistake of stopping in the dark (without a flashlight) to check it out. I had to push the car (while holding the clutch pedal down) through a 3-point turn, then limp the car home in 3rd. The clutch smelled great that night. I've been fortunate that none of my LBCs have had an actual clutch failure as Randall mentioned.
 
The correct method (that never fails) is to first get the car warmed up in neutral, then, in a nice open area, get it rolling and start it ,push in the clutch and slip it into first.Now that it's in gear under power,depress the clutch and punch the accelerator then the brake(repeat if needed)The worst clutch I have ever had to break free took 5 or six floorings to finally pop it.Ironically that clutch had to be removed anyway due to age and abuse...go figure.
MD(mad dog)
 
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