TR6 metering needle - no longer in a relationship with adjustment screw...

[cmacmillan]

...running rich (and happy it's running) - was never able to get the adjustment tool to turn very well, so pulled the top off and held the piston to work the adjustment screw.

The posts said not to turn more than 3.5 turns....but I did. Can't seem to get the needle to pull back up into the piston. Will pulling the needle out (removing the retaining screw in the side) make this easier, or put me in a worse situation?

(it actually starts up and runs with the needle all the way lean....and is still quite rich....so clearly the needle wasn't the problem:hopelessness

 

[TR3driver]

You should be able to get it engaged again by just pushing in gently on the needle (or better yet on the carrier) while turning the adjustment screw clockwise. The article at https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsII/CarbsII.htm has some nice diagrams of how it all goes together.

Too rich can be something causing the piston to not rise as it should (eg torn diaphragm or piston improperly installed); or fuel level too high. One possibility is that the floats have absorbed fuel (original floats were not ethanol resistant) and cannot hold the float valve closed against the fuel pressure from the pump. Also, some aftermarket reproduction pumps make too much pressure, leading to the same problem.

 

[cmacmillan]

Hmmm....had the piston out and tried to put pressure on the needle - % chance I've stripped the threads?

 

[TR3driver]

Could be, but usually the hex for the tool strips first. Sounds like time to pull it apart for inspection.

 

[poolboy]

If the needle is in the leanest position possible and at the same time the needle carrier is fully disengaged from the threads of the needle adjustment 'screw', the needle carrier should be protruding just a bit beyond the bottom of the air valve.
There is or should be a small delrin washer around the shank of the needle where it protrudes from the needle carrier.
The washer is old and brittle so be careful and avoid it during the following procedure.
See if by using your thumbnail to press the exposed perimeter of the needle carrier hard enough, the threads of the needle adjuster get a bite on the threads of the needle carrier as you turn the adjuster clockwise.
If you are able to get the threads engaged, there should be no reason, barring a yet undiscovered problem, that the needle set at the middle of it's adjustment range would provide a good enough mixture...1 to 1 1/4 ccw from fully cw
If for some reason, the mixture is way off, it would not be due to the needle height.
Granted, you may need further adjustment for fine tuning, but a middle setting would not cause fuel starvation or carb flooding.

 

[cmacmillan]

ok - will give it a shot. What worries me a bit it that the adjustment screw was hard to turn which may be why it's problematic getting it back in contact with the carrier - possible that the carrier itself is gummed up?

The assembly is protruding right now from the bottom of the piston. Still runs as it was (which is to say starts quick, drives well, no acceleration issues) - but is running rich and fouling the plugs...at full lean. Probably a winter project to figure it all out....running out of driving days around here.

 

[poolboy]

The difficulty in turning the adjuster could be because the washer (retaining clip Moss #365-395) has some how gotten cocked and acting as a wedge against the adjuster.
Going into the damper well from the top with a dowel bottomed out in the damper well , tap the dowel rather firmly a time or two with a light weight hammer. That should seat the clip down squarely upon the adjuster and "unwedge" the adjuster.
There are other things that could account for the force needed to turn the adjuster, such as a pinched O-ring seal, but what I described is about all you can try without further disassembly and investigation.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Yes, I have had that washer cause me some problems in the past....

Cheers
Tush

 

[cmacmillan]

I'll give it a few whacks (light ones) with a dowel and see what happens.

 

[cmacmillan]

Time for some overdue updates. Never could get the needle to grip the adjuster screw. Had to remove both and fiddle with the assembly for far too long. Anyways, finally got it to bite and it's raising and lowering as it should. Set both needles at flush with the base of the piston. Randall/Tush/Poolboy - thanks for the guidance.

Car still had a running rich problem at the end of the driving season so I imagine it'll be there on start up this year. Poolboy - found some advice you've posted on a few forums/threads. I think I can tackle checking the floats and needle valve and maybe try advancing the timing before admitting defeat and taking it in to see if someone can sort it out.