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MegaJolt installation

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The Westfield kit this is going into has lots of room in front of the crank damper.

My understanding of the trigger/sensor relationship is that as long as the missing tooth is 90 ahead of TDC the sensor can be located anywhere. As long as the computer can count 9 teeth after the missing tooth passes by and use that as TDC for it's calculations the sensor can be mounted on the right side of the engine, or the left or bottom or anywhere in between. It can also be mounted facing into the crank or along the crank axis, wherever it can get a good look at the teeth(1mm +- .5mm clearance). I am going down to my friends salvage yard tomorrow to poke around for the parts: he has over 2000 cars in the lot and hundreds of engines in the warehouse. Any Ford trigger V-8, V-6, or 4 will do, same with the VR sensor. The Ford box has to be a 4-cyl. type same as the coil. I was thinking of mounting the coil pack on a bracket where the old dist used to be and use the dist hole as another breather.

I should have the kit early next week and will report on the assembly then. Installation will have to wait until after the new year.
 
Electromotive trigger wheels are steel. I would say mounting on the back side on the inner ring f the dampner would be what I would do, make a shim so that the trigger wheel does not make contact with the outer ring of the dampner, we normally on the lathe just clean up the inner ring back side for flush mounting of the shim, from the factory this area of the dampner has a cast rough finish, if you need to shim the entire assembly forward to keep it off the timing cover lip, we used chevey 454 valve spring shim and filed a keyway notch in them before, perfect size to slip over the crank nose and available in different thicknesses, this is nothing nothing new, something most SCCA racers with Electromotives have been doing for decades
 
One of the most interesting ways to set up the 36-1 crank trigger for the VR sensor was on a car I found on a site in the UK. The owner has taken his harmonic damper to a machine shop and had the outside diameter machined to produce the 36-1 teeth right into the pulley itself. Pretty cool, and no issue with perfect centering.

Glen Byrns
 
Did he lock the damper to the inner hub?
 
And if he attached the trigger to the damping part his timing will vary as the damper rubber absorbs the power pulses, such as they are on an A-series.

BTW, I just got back from the salvage yard with a couple of different trigger wheels and a VR sensor and coil pack. The yard only deals in newer stuff so did not have a donor for the EDIS box. Time for Plan B: eBay or the other local yards.
 
The angular dispalcement of the outer ring of a good-condition damper is going to be a whole lot less than that introduced by the average timing chain/cam/distributor system in the average A-series. A degree or two at most from what I can see with a timing light. I'm going to give it a try one of these days. I want to get it going well with the locked-down dizzy before I move on to machining the damper.
I'd also be using my aftermarket damper from Australia. Nice and new, with no slop or cracked rubber in this baby!

Glen Byrns
 
I got the kit yesterday and I did the build-up in a couple of hours today. The assembly instructions online were great and it went together just as advertised. These circuit boards with all the components and their location silkscreened on the board make it easy. Soldering the components was a snap and it powereed up and tested OK with a 9V battery. If I can get an EDIS box and harness tomorrow I will be ready to install it when I get back to LA next month.
 
Westfield, please let us know how this has progressed.
Man, it's been like 3 weeks!
 
Rick, there are FOUR weeks in a month! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
Uh, right. Thanks Mike! (I think...) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif
 
Won't be back in LA until after Jan. 20th. Want to stay in Az. 'til after the Scottsdale car auctions. I will keep you all informed of my progress.

BTW I got a serial to USB adapter and the PC was able to talk to the MJ with no trouble. I could see values change as I applied vacuum to the MAP sensor!
 
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