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Mechanic for my 1970 e type

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Be 4138

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Hi everyone I have just moved to the Destin FL area. I had my 1970 EType ship here from Denver. When it arrived I started it and it idles at 1800rpm. Nothing I’ve done can change that. So I need a good mechanic who knows Stromberg carburetors. Can someone suggest a good mechanic I can call. I would plan to ship the car anywhere to have it fixed.
 
Have you checked the accelerator pedal and linkage to make sure it’s not stuck?
 
I have the linkage is free and has play in it. The idle starts when cold at 1400rpm and then as it warms up stops at 1800. I shipped it from Denver I’m thinking part of it is the altitude change. I adjusted the throttle stop screws but that maxed out and still around 1800.
 
I’ve checked for vacuum leaks around hoses and gaskets nothing there. Last thing I can do is cover the temperature compensators. After that I think someone has to open carburetors. I’m not sure I want to get into that. I just had the cylinder head redone in Denver. It idled perfectly after that. Just changed upon shipment to Florida
 
Doc is the man to ask.
Hopefully he views this post.
 
Ok thanks! Hoping Doc sees this text. I bought the car a year ago. It had issues but my mechanic in Denver sorted those out. Sounds good, runs great but can’t have it idling at 1800 rpm’s.
 
Be 4138 said:
Ok thanks! Hoping Doc sees this text. I bought the car a year ago. It had issues but my mechanic in Denver sorted those out. Sounds good, runs great but can’t have it idling at 1800 rpm’s.
Click to expand...
If your mechanic sorted it in Denver - is the high idle new? In which case it shouldn't be that hard to diagnose. Have you done anything to it? Could the choke be stuck on?
 
also Doc is in Tampa so a ways away
 
It was fine in Denver. Something happened during shipping. I’ve checked the throttle linkage. Checked for vacuum leaks. Check the temp compensator. Throttle stop screw is fully adjusted. I think the only thing left is to check needle valve. Not sure what else.
 
the choke mechanism looks to fully withdraw and the attached wire has a little slack in it. You’re right should be something simple. Just not sure what else to check.
 
If nothing else was touched on the engine between moving it from Denver (at 5,280’ above sea level) to Destin (at 20’ above sea level) try enriching the fuel mixture on both carbs.

Carbs at higher elevations are typically set up leaner to compensate for the thinner air.
 
Scarrgo thanks! Trying to figure out how to do that. I think it takes a special tool. The bottom slotted fitting doesn’t turn on my carburetors. If anyone owns the series 2 version and has a suggestion please let me know.
 
A little googling suggests that you have stromberg carbs - is this the case?

Here is a youtube video (there mre many more)


If you don't already know University Motors, John Twist is a genius and has many videos


Finally assuming they are Strombergs PM your email and I can send you a manual in PDF form if you want.

I suspect this is a DIY job.
 
So recent update. I went out and tapped each carb with a wrench. I noticed the gasket on the front carb was wet with fuel. That suggested to me the needle valve might be stuck. After tapping both carbs I started the car and the idle behaved normally. Checking further I noticed the fuel filter is black with sediment. I’m figuring the shipping must have dislodged something in the fuel tank that finally got stuck in the carb needle valve. Tapping on it release it. So I’ve ordered a new filter kit to change the current one out.
JPSmit thanks for the offer to send the manual. I would love that. My email is (deleted)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
manual sent.

Glad it seems sorted - I love that even something as exotic as an E-type can be fixed with a sharp tap to the carb.

:cheers:
 
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