Hi Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
On ring gap I use the fllowing formula, measureed in the bore atleast 1" from the top. Use a unringed piston to square them up in the bore.
Top ring: bore x.0045"
Second ring: bore x.0035"
Oil control rings: minimum of .0015"
Most ring sets I find on street engine rings or piston set with rings suppiled are just a wee bit tighter than this, and probably would run ok as is, but I always adjust to this gap, even on street engines.
I will add this, I seen a few cases, where folks got new rings with or without new piston sets, and the gaps were huge and totally unacceptable, one I remember was .023" for a compression ring. So measure what you got before you use it, you have a much better chance getting a vendor to handle a repalcements for you before you use it in a running engine than aftrwards.
Top ring: bore x.0045"
Second ring: bore x.0035"
Oil control rings: minimum of .0015"
Most ring sets I find on street engine rings or piston set with rings suppiled are just a wee bit tighter than this, and probably would run ok as is, but I always adjust to this gap, even on street engines.
I will add this, I seen a few cases, where folks got new rings with or without new piston sets, and the gaps were huge and totally unacceptable, one I remember was .023" for a compression ring. So measure what you got before you use it, you have a much better chance getting a vendor to handle a repalcements for you before you use it in a running engine than aftrwards.