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Actually, I did take my bolts out from the footwell. As I recall, I took the rubber plug out from behind the master, and that gave me a clear shot at the bolt with a ratchet with long extension.
 
good... I'll have to swing by a hardware store on my way home and pick up a long extension to remove the master. Unfortunately, the big rubber grommet in the fire wall behind the pedal box was non-existant when I bought the car, and I've never ordered a replacement. I'll have to tack that piece onto my list of parts to order.
 
no floaters in the clutch fluid. I got the old master Cylinder out, the new one installed, and the system bled tonight. No change in the usability of the clutch. Pedal travels nearly half way before encountering resistance.

I think I'm gonna have to contract someone out to service the clutch (don't have the facilities to do the work myself /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif ). I noticed yesturday after removing the slave that the tunig fork (release bearing lever) did not instantly spring to a rested position. So, I'm figuring maybe the fork is bent (is that even possible?), the throw out/release bearing is severely worn, the pressure plate is shot, or the entire transmission is fubar. I don't really think the entire transmission is fubar, but I don't wanna rule anything out.

Anyone else wanna sepculate with me, while I try and figure out the LA bus schedule? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
Oh yeah, Tony, you get my email?
 
"did not instantly spring to a rested position" Did it return at all by its self? How can that be?

Have no clue about a bad pressure plate, never happened to me.
 
I dunno how... I just know it didn't. I was expecting some major kick back when I removed the bolts, but there wasn't really. When I put the new one in, there was a fair amount of slack between the piston and the push rod.
 
Sounds like the T/O bearing may be worn to the housing shell. Maybe the PP has been chewed up as well; I've seen the centers ripped free of the "fingers" when the T/O graphite had been completely worn away... Not pretty. You wouldn't let it go that far, methinks, so you pro'lly have a worn out T/O and clutch disc. That would be enuff to account for the free-play at the slave.
 
Gesh, thats what I thought, but was afraid to say. Open it up and replace the clutch, pressure plate, throughout bearing, fork bushings.

Yea yea, pull the engine and tranny first.

Lot of work but worth it.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Oh yeah, Tony, you get my email?

[/ QUOTE ]
rob - I'm a little behind right now but don't see one from you...

Ah, wait, just found it & answered!
 
[ QUOTE ]
ARRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

How in Sam Hill are you supposed to get that stinking Clutch Master Cylinder off of the pedal box>?!?!? Do I have to run out and pick up a 12 extension so I can get a ratchet onto the bloody bottom bolt from the foot well?!? I thought I was gonna be smart and attempt a vicegrip + 3/8 breaker bar through the footwell to the bottom bolt holding the cltuch master but I couldn't keep the stupid thing on the bolt!

GRRRR! I wanna see the contorionist that put these things together! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif After this afternoon, I'll change a clutch line ANY day with the starter still in place over changing the master cylinder!


Other update. Slave Cylinder is changed. The old slave was definitely jacked up. However, the master is so far gone that it doesn't start delivering pressure to the slave until half travel. It's thoroughly bled; no air in the system at all. So, I know for sure the master is hosed. Also, more indications to confirm my thoughts; there's plenty of seepage at the plunger seal. Aside from the drips I was getting on my left foot, I can see the area below the plunger seal has quite a bit of fluid on it.

I also need to add this to my update on the clutch. The little pressure that I did have was enough to move the slave, and therefore the clutch arm/lever, but it *felt* <u><font color="red">***NASTY***</font></u>. I mean REALLY nasty. It felt like my foot was dragging on a gravel road nasty. It was coupled with some funky DJ sounds from the clutch, which I will interpret to mean something ain't right. I've never worked on/replaced a clutch before. I suspect this means at the very least the throw-out bearing is shot too?

Either way, I'm 95% sure I wanna throw in the towel and contract someone else to fix the rest of the clutch system. If changing the master will only need a 12" extension, I'll prolly do that myself before calling for a tow truck.

Sooooooo.... Tips on Clutch Master Cylinder removal anyone? And any wild guesses on what else may be bad or very close to failure?

[/ QUOTE ]

I haven't been here in a long time. Sorry you're having these issues. If I were you I'd call "Darrin's MG service" at 818-882 4414 and go to sleep feeling like everything'll be allright. Only 26 miles from your place.
 
Dimitri, I'm in Woodland Hills. How is it that I've never seen a bright yellow chrome bumper B driving around? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I got a guy 8 miles from my place that works on British cars quite a bit. Well, Brit cars are supposed to be his specialty. I've already spoken to the guy and gotten his price. I plan on having my car flat-bedded to his shop when I get the clutch kit in.
 
British Continental Coachworks on San Fernando BLVD between Charter Comm Cable and Grandview. Google maps lists the name incorrectly as:

"British and European Motorworks"
6234 San Fernando Rd, Glendale, CA
(818) 246-2900

the addy and phone # of the location are correct, but the actual name isn't. The guy that owns the place shares the premises with an old guy's alternator shop. The same alternator guy that fixed up my Bosche alternator after Autohell botched it.

They usually have a couple of classic Brit and European cars on their lot. I'm not quite sure what for, but they've had a black RB B on their lot for several months now, and an X1/9 for prolly over a year now. Plus a couple other cars they keep under covers....
 
Remember, on my site's "theList" feature, I've got a place where we recommend good LBC shops in our areas.

https://www.theautoist.com/thelist.htm

Oh, & if you're not a citizen of MGdom, send me the info & join!
 
I'll save my reocommendations til after the works done. I've only used the guy once before to give the car a look over so I'd know what all I would have to fix to keep driving and to pass smog. This'll be the first time I've used him for repair work.
 
Just call "Darrin's MG service" at 818-882-4414 and let him take care of your problem, you'll be very happy. He's only 26 miles from you.
But if you're big on being a DIYer then call'm anyway and pick his brain. You won't be disappointed.
Good luck!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Dimitri, I'm in Woodland Hills. How is it that I've never seen a bright yellow chrome bumper B driving around? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
I don't know lol!! Everywhere I go I get "thumps up", double takes and what not. I could care less. My favorite moment as far as attention goes is when little kids come up to me and say "hey mr, coool car". Little kids ABSOLUTELY love the MG.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Just call "Darrin's MG service" at 818-882-4414 and let him take care of your problem, you'll be very happy. He's only 26 miles from you.
But if you're big on being a DIYer then call'm anyway and pick his brain. You won't be disappointed.
Good luck!

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry about this post. I thought my first post didn't make it, so I was basically repeating my self.
 
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