Maybe a Crypty Miracle?

[TR3driver]

My recommendation is to take the old bearings off(need to use a drift to drive out the outer race which will remain in the hub)

I agree, but don't forget that the race has to come out straight. Just tap, first on one side and then on the other. It only moves a little bit at each tap, so keep at it. Look inside the hub, there should be notches in it for easier access to the backside of the race with the drift (aka punch).

Another area where I wouldn't change them unless you can see some sign of wear or damage. Otherwise, just clean thoroughly, repack with quality grease (I also like moly) and put them back together.

Personally I find the felt seal entirely adequate and very long-lived, but suit yourself on that point. Nothing wrong with the rubber seal either.

 

[AweMan]

Well Dale I wish you the best of luck on your endevors with this "Mechanic". Like Kenney says Know when to hold em, Know when to fold em and Know when to RUN.
For a plane ticket and a pillow for one night I would have gladly flew down and installed that T.O. bearing. *SMILE*
Just to let you know, you are not the only one with a delema.
I priced some body work on my front valance and front fenders today. All I will say is ooooouuuuuuccccccchhhhhhhh!
The result is, I am going to buy a spot welder and try my hand at manufacturing some lower front fender repair panels for Tr-2 & 3 MYSELF. I know I can make them for a {experlative here} sight less than $129.00 apiece Plus body shop labor to have the fenders repaired.
Labor rates are outragous! And I have nothing better to do anyway.
Good luck my friend!

 

[Tinster]

Ron-
Front wheel bearings for sure need replacement.
Rear wheel bearings probably shot.

I'll drive the car until the differential becomes a
problem and purchase a unit from TRF or other parts
supply house.

Right now, the differential just gives me a big clunk
upon gear shifts. Yes, it's the diffy- everything else
up the flywheel is brand new. The thunk originates inside
the diffy.

d

 

[RonMacPherson]

Okay, you've got the input on the frt wheel bearings.

Why do you presume the rear are shot? Excessive movement? Noise?

They aren't exactly cheap, so let's not spend the money to replace them unless they need it.


As far as the diff. Sounds like normal wear. They spacers that LBC chose for this Salisbury style diff, that go between the spider gears and the differential carrier are known for wear. They do, and when they do, you'll hear an initial klunk on takeup. As far as replacing the diff, if you've got a good shop down there that does off road/heavy duty truck diffs, they can do these. Should only need the spacers, seals and bearings, The ring and pinion and spider last almost forever.

And a couple hundred to put bearings and spacers, and seals in is a lot less expensive than a reman from the big three.

 

[Tinster]

Ron:

Thanks for the input on the differential- that's
worth looking into for me. A lot of 4X4 vehicles
here on the island.

The rear wheel bearings?

Well, the trailing arm was buggered up and came off
the car while we were driving it. That was scary. The
front bearings for sure are shot.

I have yet to uncover ANYTHING that was not shot, worn
out or buggered up by DPO Pedro. Why should the rear wheel
bearings be any different?

I mean- this is the guy who had his entire exhaust system
tack welded to the frame to save the expense of proper
hangers. The guy who drove around with his lever shocks
dry and not even bolted to the frame. The guy who never
changed the oil in 3 or 4 years.

You think maybe he spent some $$ on his rear hubs??

Eightball SAYS: doubtful!

d