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Masters Headlamp Wiring Harness

You can get them on Ebay, or an Amazon vendor.
Do a search for "Blue Sea Systems Bus Bars" or similar

I have a bunch on my car now - needed a lot of taps for FI...
 
Paul-What Alan said. But, you being in the Great NE I am sure there are at least 1 or 2 marine stores in your area. I got all mine there. Paid a little more but I wanted them now.
 
hondo402000 said:
...I used the wires from the dip switch going to the head lights under the hood so I didnt have to go back throught the fire wall, I found the Hi beam wire and low beam wire ran to the relay as the signal wire and then ran heaver gauge wire to the head lights from the relay and a power wire to the battery and a ground...

That is how I recently added headlamp relays to the TR4. Seemed simplest and effective since none of the original switching wires were carrying more than the load to operate the relays.

Putting the setup right at the junction for the many wires at the top front of the engine compartment (and using original color wires & connectors) made it look more or less right.

Sure it looks like a spaghetti bowl of bullet connectors, but it looked like that before the relays were added. Only had to add 2 single bullet connector 'tubes' and none of the original wiring was cut or otherwise molested, just slightly re-routed.

Best of all -- it works. Prior to this I had an incident where the headlamp switch got warmish. I took it apart and cleaned it etc but also got the message that my halogen bulbs were likely pushing things a bit.


HeadlampRelays.JPG
 
Geo,

Where does one find individual lengths of "correct" color coded wire like that. I needed to replace a "red/green" and gave up looking for it. I used a red one and marked it with green tape.

Also, what is the function/need of new relays for headlights?

Finally, that sure looks good. How did you secure the relays?

thx
 
IMO, The main purpose of the added headlight relays is to get more power to the headlights, which means more light on the road. Because of the way incandescent lamps work (which includes tungsten, quartz-halogen, Xenon ... everything used on cars except true HID), even a little more voltage means quite a bit more light.

A secondary purpose is to relieve the load on marginal, antique (and sometimes NLA) switches and wires.

Although folks talk about the original wires not being able to handle increased power headlamps, IMO that's not usually an issue. The stock wires are large enough to not overheat even with 100 watt bulbs ... tho the increased voltage drop can mean that the 100 watters aren't any brighter than the usual 60s. Marginal connections and switches are a much more common problem, in my experience. Unless of course the smoke has leaked out
grin.gif


Randall - getting ready to roll out of Kingman, Az
 
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