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Manifold studs, nuts, keepers

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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I removed my carb and manifold today to drill and tap the intake for a vacuum source and discovered that the brass nuts were somewhat loose and a couple would not tighten. The studs were stripped or almost stripped near the head and I want to replace all 6. Where is a good source for all 3 components? The po used plain soft steel washers and they were pretty bent, does the 1275 use the old style keepers instead of washers?
Thanks, Rut
 
Better yet, call Gordon at the B Hive in Clemson, SC,
www.thebhive.com he sells them in kit form with new brass nuts, I get these from him all the time. Oh and Gordon will be next day shipping for you at normal ground pricing. Gordon also has weekly and monthly internet specials that his customer love, he sends you email that lets you look at his special sale, pretty cool, Gordon is good people. Lots of Spridget folks dont realize Gordon sells and stock Spridget parts, but he does, and know what he speaks of, Gordon used to be factory tech in the day.
 
Hap, thanks for the information and link. I'll follow-up and order a set. When I bought the car it had a newly rebuilt 1275 and the po said that it was put together by a very reputable restorer in the area, no name given. The more I dig into the engine the more I realize that this guy should never be granted access to an engine. The parts I've pulled off look like they probably came from a junk yard instead of NOS or replacement. When the engine is out to finish the 'rear seal' repair I plan on going thru everything within my scope of capability. Thanks to people like you and other members of this forum I feel like I have a good chance to successfully complete this project. After I get her drivable I will look at stripping her down for a full restoration, not the rolling type I'm atempting now. As I work on a problem I am refinishing/replacing the part so I'll be a step ahead when the major restoration starts. Thanks again, Rut
 
Hap, parts ordered and I enjoyed talking to Gordon, nice guy.
Thanks again, Rut
 
Well said Hap, especially since they both live in a close proximity of each other. I’m willing to make a wager that you want find the correct studs in one of those big boxes that are on every corner….
 
Having done this recently, I can say that yes my local NAPA did have the correct studs, and washers. The brass nuts they had were a little longer than the originals, but worked fine. While I was there they also faced my header for me.

I still order from guys like Gordon, but sometimes I need to move forward with a project rather than waste another day. When I started the reassembly I was unaware that the old hardware was in such sad shape, if I had looked closer I would have included the hardware in my order that had all the gaskets and such.

Autozone, Advanced Auto, O'Reillys ... I doubt that they would have had the hardware.
 
I replaced all the common hardware on every engine I build, if it's not a special specfic to that engine fastner it goes straight to the scrap steel barrel. I use alot of grade 8 fastners, not because all of the applications need grade 8, but more because they are gold zinc plated rather than white zinc plated and I think they look better. Replacing all the common fastners in a engine even with grade 8 does cost more than 20-30 bucks, and if I attempted clean all crappy NOS hardware, my labor would be way more than that to do it, so the customer gets the good stuff and saves money.


Rut, glad I could help with hooking you and Gordon up, he's a good guy, and not your run of the mill Moss distributor, Gordon is English as you well know now, and has alot of UK connections, and gets stuff you don't find at the run of the mill Moss distributor. Buying from the UK is a tricky deal, they have thier fair share of idiots over there, so knowing who to buy from, and who not to, is key, and Gordon has forgotten more than most of us will ever know about buying from the UK.
 
Hap, to me labor is the most expensive part of anything even when doing it myself. The old adage of 'measure twice, cut once' applies to everything I do and I had much rather replace every part that might be suspect. I will reuse parts that are easy to get to, but on internal parts why take the chance. Thanks to everyone's support and expertise I have a much better chance of getting this right the first time!
Thanks, Rut
 
Rut - I suggest having the engine components balanced while "you're at it". Maybe you were already going to do that but just wanted to toss in my 2 cents worth.
Roy
 
I use on my street 1275 Bugeye the same stuff I have on the 1275 LP HP racer: ARP stainless studs with ARP 12-point nuts, with the stock heavy washers. The 12-pt 3/8" nuts are much easier to get a wrench on than the 1/2" brass nuts. I suppose the key question is how important the stock appearance is -
 
Thanks guys! I hope to keep out of the engine for now, just replace what I can get to. I ordered a set of studs and nuts to replace all of the originals. The engine is a rebuild and I hope it will be a good one. I'm fixing the little things now before I get into a total resto later.
Thanks, Rut
 
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