-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR2/3/3A Manifold gaskets....To use sealer or not? New ones look like fiber,old ones look like metal???
- Thread starter karls59tr
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
Use no sealers here but put anti seize on your studs, tighten properly. This is
also a great time to work the intake port on # 3 . It is almost always 2mm off set.
The factory was perfect on 1,2,4. but the jigs were off on 3. At least I have never seen
one that was good.(in the last 50yrs)
I use the al. foil method, to make a perfect template on the cylinder head.When transfered to the
manifold the problem is clear and easy to fix(drimill). FYI . Probably a coinkingdink but it seems
to be #3 that is the cylinder to fail when a motor blows up.
Mad dog
also a great time to work the intake port on # 3 . It is almost always 2mm off set.
The factory was perfect on 1,2,4. but the jigs were off on 3. At least I have never seen
one that was good.(in the last 50yrs)
I use the al. foil method, to make a perfect template on the cylinder head.When transfered to the
manifold the problem is clear and easy to fix(drimill). FYI . Probably a coinkingdink but it seems
to be #3 that is the cylinder to fail when a motor blows up.
Mad dog
I never knew that. I'll take out that 2 mil with a Dremel. I reordered the "upgraded" manifold gaskets from Moss. The fiber ones I got don't look heavy duty enough to seal the header I'm running. I want a good seal.
I've used fiber header gaskets on FF1600 racing engines. They work IF your header flange is thick and flatflatflat.
My header was, of course, NOT. I began blowing out gaskets after a couple of seasons (the section right between two neighboring ports, where there is no hardware keeping the flange tight to the head, just like what we have here!) Your first thought is "it wasn't tight enough," so you crank down a little harder next time, which warps the flange even more, making the problem worse.
Old-timers advised me to use copper RTV on both sides. It didn't fix the problem, although it probably would have helped a lot if the flange had been flat(ter).
I eventually found out about Remflex gaskets. Super-thick graphite gaskets that really really squash. That was the last header gasket I ever had to buy. I can't recommend them highly enough. It paid for itself pretty quickly.
Remflex Exhaust Gaskets
Remflex Triumph L4 Exhaust Gasket Set
They also offer the material in bulk so you can cut your own.
My header was, of course, NOT. I began blowing out gaskets after a couple of seasons (the section right between two neighboring ports, where there is no hardware keeping the flange tight to the head, just like what we have here!) Your first thought is "it wasn't tight enough," so you crank down a little harder next time, which warps the flange even more, making the problem worse.
Old-timers advised me to use copper RTV on both sides. It didn't fix the problem, although it probably would have helped a lot if the flange had been flat(ter).
I eventually found out about Remflex gaskets. Super-thick graphite gaskets that really really squash. That was the last header gasket I ever had to buy. I can't recommend them highly enough. It paid for itself pretty quickly.
Remflex Exhaust Gaskets
Remflex Triumph L4 Exhaust Gasket Set
They also offer the material in bulk so you can cut your own.