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major brake malfunction

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darrenb

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ok, been tinkering a bit trying to sort out what i have or havent got to do to the B, anyways, brakes dont work, not even a little bit, so im pushing the peddle, hoping it will pump up a little, that or squirt fluid somewhere showing me whats wring, but alas, nothing. but i heard a whooshing noise when i push peddle, booster is not hooked to vaccum so i start to look and everytime i push peddle brake fluid is squirting onto the engine out of the booster hose, anyone wanna tell me which part is bad, the booster or the master cylinder, im sure i would probably need to change both, but just lookign for an easy out for now so i can drive it out of the garage into the sun to work on it.
thanks
Darren
 
The seals in the brake master cylinder have failed. The master cylinder is leaking where the push rod makes contact. You are going to need a new master cylinder.
 
[ QUOTE ]
ok, been tinkering a bit trying to sort out what i have or havent got to do to the B, anyways, brakes dont work, not even a little bit, so im pushing the peddle, hoping it will pump up a little, that or squirt fluid somewhere showing me whats wring, but alas, nothing. but i heard a whooshing noise when i push peddle, booster is not hooked to vaccum so i start to look and everytime i push peddle brake fluid is squirting onto the engine out of the booster hose, anyone wanna tell me which part is bad, the booster or the master cylinder, im sure i would probably need to change both, but just lookign for an easy out for now so i can drive it out of the garage into the sun to work on it.
thanks
Darren

[/ QUOTE ]


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

--------------------------Booster!!---------------------Keoke

Note to drive out of the garage use the hand brake to stop it and hold it in the work place,same procedure to put back in gagage. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Booster under normal conditions has NO contact with brake fluid UNLESS the master cylinder is leaking into it. The seals in the master are trashed, allowing fluid to ENTER the intake side of the booster. When you depress the pedal, the escaped fluid (FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER) is being forced thru the vacuum line. Replace the MC and because the booster diaphragm has been exposed to fluid, it will *likely* be damaged as well, but NOT necessarily.

keoke... go wind a clock.
 
& you can rebuild your booster for much less money than buying new....however, its a tricky proposition (not hard just compressed spring tricky).
 
[ QUOTE ]
I heard a whooshing noise when i push peddle

[/ QUOTE ]
Like walking around in wet sneakers... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
....eeewww!

BRAKE fluid soaked?!?!?!

You can't outrun THAT.
 
If it's just yer left foot....

I've got a couple of extra good driving shoes.
(I usually destroy the right one)

Also.....Some good left gloves. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Oft wonder'd why ya can't buy just ONE side of either. You'd think some enterprising fella would realise there'd be a market... y'know? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
I need to buy a RHD car....

Think how much money I'd save on gloves./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
Only if ya drove both cars at each event! Yeah, That'd save ya a TON in glove/shoe money... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
aroo? Are British RHD cars different from Nippon RHD cars? I drove a RHD Suzuki Jimny in Okinawa for a year or two, and the foot pedals were the same as LHD. I could only see the gloves getting the wear evened out...
 
[ QUOTE ]
Booster under normal conditions has NO contact with brake fluid UNLESS the master cylinder is leaking into it. The seals in the master are trashed, allowing fluid to ENTER the intake side of the booster. When you depress the pedal, the escaped fluid (FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER) is being forced thru the vacuum line. Replace the MC and because the booster diaphragm has been exposed to fluid, it will *likely* be damaged as well, but NOT necessarily.

keoke... go wind a clock.

[/ QUOTE ]

Nope DRE, the boosters can fail in the hdraulic section which floods the vacuum reservoir and is then sucked into the intake manifold where it generates lotsa white smoke. Where you been!---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
k'... Girling MkIIB servo can pass fluid to the intake.

Keoke WINS!
 
A booster is NOT the same as a servo. A booster cannot pass fluid to the intake unless the acuating (master)cylinder has failed. A booster uses atmospheric differentials to apply a mechanical advantage to a hydralic cylinder. (air over air) A servo uses a hydralic proportioning system to accomplish the same task and has at least one more place to leak. FWIW....

Alan T
 
Alan, I figger it ain't worth the argie to 'splain it proper, RE: vacuum booster vs. servo. I gave it a shot and (apparently) failed miserably. *snork*

Thanks for the extra effort tho. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I figure......

If ya can't hit the brakes hard enough ta avoid something.

Ya ain't scared enough.

Don't need no fancy booster......Em's fur ol' ladys

pardon me.....Just back from the pub /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I figure......

If ya can't hit the brakes hard enough ta avoid something.

Ya ain't scared enough.

Don't need no fancy booster......Em's fur ol' ladys

pardon me.....Just back from the pub /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif I think a lot of us are thinking the same thing...but didn't have enough to drink to say so /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
All that stuff above AND...

The hydraulic fluid might have been unfriendly to the rubber diaphragm inside the booster and if left there it could completely ruin it.

If you want to try and save the booster without doing a rebuild go to the drug store and buy a LOT of denatured alcohol, perhaps five or six quarts. it's cheap so splurge.

Then use it to rinse out the insides of the booster. Take it off the car and pour the alcohol into the chambers swishing it around and then dumping it. Repeat this until you are out of alcohol (a very sad state of affairs if I do say so) and then let it air dry for a few days. Don't try to blow it clean with compressed air as that my introduce more moisture.

When you are done, stick it back on the car along with a new or rebuild master cylinder and operate the car gingerly for a few days just to make sure that the safety factor is way up there.

Jack
 
I just didn't see the post 'till now. Alfa -booster- is disconnected, I've a large collection of -servos- inna shed. Reduces the complexity factor and increases the "feel".

And I think automatic trannys should be outlawed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
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