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Lucas [oil that is]

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JPSmit

JPSmit

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So, I used Lucas Oil Stabilizer to assemble my engine. (It describes itself as assembly lube on the label.) Now a week or so later, I can't get the pistons to budge and I suspect it is because the oil is tacky. (remember it is a partially constructed engine - no flywheel yet or head.

Any thoughts as to how to solve this? solvent? fogging oil? WD40?

I'm still trying to sort out the timing.

TIA
 
Heh, I used American engine assembly stuff on mine and no way could I turn it without a starter, I mean it was tight.

Put the flywheel on and the starter.
 
whatever you do, use something very light. If you goop it up with too heavy of an oil you run the risk of the rings not seating when the times comes. Believe me I know, I've made that mistake!

Are you 100% certain, something else isn't causing it to bind up? Did you plastiguage all the bearings? Might be overkill, but it sure doesn't hurt to check and easy to do, before you button it up.
 
Did you turn it after installing each bearing?
 
Yes it hand turned before the oil congealed (and after I reversed all the cranks /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Didn't plastiguage the bearings. Should I recheck it? It's the Grey's anatomy finalle tonite so that would be a good time. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

TIA
 
You'll need some good masculine bearing checking and engine turning to counter act all the estrogen flowing from "Grey's Anatomy." /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Seriously, pour some ligter oil on top, put a wrench on and grunt.
 
Morris said:
You'll need some good masculine bearing checking and engine turning to counter act all the estrogen flowing from "Grey's Anatomy." /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Amen to that
Click to expand...
 
Whatever you do, don't put any WD40 in there. That stuff is a cleaner, not a lubricant. It will just wash away whatever oil you put in. Although that might solve the immediate problem, it will be bad in the long haul.
 
Properly assembled and clearanced, the thing should turn over with litle effort. I doubt that congealed oil is the root cause. Time to check some bearing clearances, and look at the bearing shells for tell tale high spots. A simple piece of grit on the back side of a bearing can lock the crank.
Jeff
 
Well Jeff - looks like you win the prize. tried a lighter oil, nothing. undid the middle two pistons and it turned like a charm. Long & short of it, when you tighten piston #3 on the crank it is fine, when you torque it, locks it up solid. I took it all apart, cleaned and reseated the bearings, torqued, no change.

Bearings are new (and a set)

I can't guarantee the bottom and top of the piston crank are mates, they may have got mixed up.

I do still have the old bearings.

Any suggestions?
 
I would plastiguage and see what happens, but might be time to take the lump back to the machine shop.
 
They should be marked, they must be marked??
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif
They should be marked.
Some engines like Fergusson mark the caps with punch marks corresponding to the cylinder number. Some like Mercedes mark them with arbitrary numbers.

I don't remember how Austin marked them, but there should be something on both the rod and the cap, and they should be the same marking and adjacent when assembled.

btw, this is VERY important!
 
JPSmit said:
I can't guarantee the bottom and top of the piston crank are mates, they may have got mixed up.
Click to expand...

What the heck is the top and bottom of a piston crank ??? Are you saying you may have mixed up the rods and rod caps, if so that's big time no-no, are the bearing tab keepers on the same side of the rod/cap assembly, if not that should be. Sounds to me you need to take all the rods to a knowledgeable machine shop and let them check and resize the rods. Get someone to help with this that has done this before (engine rebuilding) you could be headed down a path of destruction. Assembly lube on the cylinders and mixed up rods and caps, this ain't good dude! Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to tick you off, but there just enough information here to make me hear bells and sirens, get some help before you destroy this motor.
 
On my 1500, the numbers were "hand written" on rod and cap with an engraving tool.
 
Everyone on this list has made mistakes at one time or another. And it's always easier to see someone else's possible mistakes. So when an expert like Hap offers advice I'd advice to take it.

That's one of the great things of this forum -- no one judges, no stupid questions. Only great answers, advice and best wishes.

(I don't even want to talk about my wheels falling off, or my bonnet flying up against my windshield at 60 MPH!)
 
Bruce_B said:
(I don't even want to talk about my wheels falling off, or my bonnet flying up against my windshield at 60 MPH!)
Click to expand...

And why is that Bruce? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Stuart. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
HapW said:
...but there just enough information here to make me hear bells and sirens, get some help before you destroy this motor.
Click to expand...

Just now opened this thread for the first time... I heard the same cacophony. This is by NO means a condemnation or criticism. Rather a 'heads-up' for one of the BCF fellows. Something's up with those con-rods, pressing forward without getting it right will break your heart. Some careful measurements need doing to sort it. Machinist's measuring.

And "assembly lube" can be a tricky thing. It depends a lot on how long the stuff is expected to sit before the unit is fired up, but I generally use a 'slurry' of 50/50 STP and motor oil. Everyone likely has their "favorite".


EDIT: Rod caps and rods are generally marked as "mates" from new. Every A or B series engine I've seen has been so. Usually numbered.
 
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