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MGB Lowering a rubber bumper MGB

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53mgtd

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I plan on lowering my 80' MGB to the chrome bumper height but not by using the quick and easy way of shorter springs up front and blocks in the rear. I am going to do it the challenging way by swaping out the front crossmember with a chrome bumper one :crazyeyes:. At least one hurdle I have to overcome is the steering rack. I know there are issues but I don't know all of them yet. Do I shorten the steering shaft? Do I just swap the whole rack assembly with a chrome bumper one? Will that one be to short? What about the crossmember to frame bolts? Sill I need different ones there too? :confuse:
 
If memory serves the cross member will bolt up and you can use the earlier rack but you will have to make a hybrid steering shaft from the old one from the car and the new one from the rack on the crossmemeber.
 
Stewart said:
If memory serves the cross member will bolt up and you can use the earlier rack but you will have to make a hybrid steering shaft from the old one from the car and the new one from the rack on the crossmemeber.
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Your right Stewart about the cross member bolting up and also a change has to be made in the steering shaft. But also, the steering rack stand off mounting brackets are a different length between the CB and RB. I forget which, but one is longer than the other, so allowances have to be made for that also. Even though it can be done, modifying a steering shaft should not be taken lightly. You might have Gerry Masterman, over on the MG Experience forum, build you a steering column that fits the modification. He's very qualified to do this, but I don't know if he's working at it anymore.
 
The problem with switching crossmembers (the preferred method) is that the steering rack then won't go through the motor mount hole unless you "roll" it a little with washers between the steering rack's bolts and the suspension beam's bolts - that's all. Once you've installed the earlier crossmember, you fit your steering rack through the motor mount hole & hook it to your steering column....then, you attach the rack to the crossmember (you'll readily see which bolts need stand-offs under them - I just use washers as stand-offs.

What Gerry provides is new bushings for your steering column to do away with the play that's occurred over the many years of use.
 
tony barnhill said:
What Gerry provides is new bushings for your steering column to do away with the play that's occurred over the many years of use.
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Tony, he did shorten a column for a guy once that I know of. It was something to do with using a different steering rack assembly. Might have been the same situation that were talking about here or a rack from another type car.
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No, that was a different application...length of the chaft isn't problem - problem is that when you use the early beam, you move the rack closer to the 'frame rail'...& on a later car, the steering goes through the motor mount bracket...so closer to the rail & different angle of shaft to get through the mount means you have to tilt the rack because the combination really exxaberates the mounting angle - I've done it before...you don't have to shorten the shaft, just tilt the rack.
 
I'm no expert on this, but doesn't tilting of the rack affect bump steer?? :confuse:
 
martx-5 said:
I'm no expert on this, but doesn't tilting of the rack affect bump steer?? :confuse:
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Nope - it dosn't change that much.
 
"tilting" the rack <span style="font-style: italic"> <span style="font-style: italic">should</span></span> have no affect on bump steer.

Bump steer is affected when the height of the inner tie rod ends is modified, higher or lower than factory which basically changes the vertical movement between them on the ends of the rack.

Puhn wrote a very explanatory book "How to Make Your Car Handle".. Might find it worthwhile reading.
 
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