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TR2/3/3A Loosen engine

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I learned the concept of filling the engine will oil from an old farmer 45 years ago. We were working on a 1950 Chev truck that had set in this barn for 20 years and it was in nice shape. I did what he said and got the engine free and pushed started it and drove it for a year or so. Gee I wish I still had it.

Anyways come to find out those old Chevs had these little oil throwers on each rod that actually tossed oil up to the motor. Perhaps that is one reason why he liked freeing up those engines that way, and plus bulk oil was like 2 bucks a gallon. I would like to add this old farm boy was one of the best mechanics I have ever met, even to this day. He could fix anything.

What I post is a suggestion; I would not want to damage anyone’s vehicle. I have no idea what “hydro-lock” even is, and I have done the oil filling concepts on motors that I would feel are worth the investment of a couple gallons of oil. Plus I see nothing wrong will soaking an engine that has not run in 30 year with oil, but again I have never been able to get the oil to come up to the top of an engine by running the oil pump with a drill. One thing I forgot to mention is, I would have taken the valve cover off to poor all that oil into the engine and soak the top of the engine.

Steve
 
sp53 said:
I have no idea what “hydro-lock” even is,
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Generally refers to having a cylinder full of something non-compressible, like oil, water, or fuel. Not gonna be a problem with the plugs out (which is part of the reason they should always be out when starting to revive an engine from long storage).

I did actually manage to hydrolock the motor on Stag #1 once and then try to crank it with the starter. All it did was stall the starter motor. They just don't develop enough torque to damage a piston or con rod; a lot less force involved than just normal running at max power.

Where it can be a problem though is when the engine is already running at higher rpm and a cylinder suddenly sucks a slug of something. Kind of like jumping off a building, it's not the fall but the sudden stop at the end.
 
Tried the 4th gear, wheel turning and PRESTO! the engine turned over. I moved it back and forth so now know pistons are not stuck in the cylinders. I might, now, turn the starter over, plugs out, to check the compression.
I have some rust, pretty much surface stuff, I want to remove. There are so many different products and removal ways. Anyone had good success with a special product? Want to paint over, after the rust is gone.

Dick
 
The 4th gear wheel turning did the trick. I will now try to turn it over with the starter to check the compression.

Thanks Guys, for your help.

Dick
 
I am restoring a 54 TR-2 long door and have surface rust I would like to remove, before painting over with POR-15. Have any of you guys had good luck with any particular product? There is so much stuff out the ; 1 stage, 2 stage, 3 stage etc!

Dick
 
Redoakboo; I have some rust said:
I used some Naval jelly from a local hardware store. Put it on with a brush, let it sit and then wiped it off with wet rags. I used two different rags to make sure that I got it all off of the metal. If the rust is deep then multiple applications are needed. But for the most part I used an air driven tool with sanding discs. Removes paint and rust and works pretty fast. This leaves a clean chemical free surface. I even sanded over most of the areas where I had used the naval jelly.
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Randall "I did actually manage to hydrolock the motor on Stag #1 once and then try to crank it with the starter. All it did was stall the starter motor. They just don't develop enough torque to damage a piston or con rod; a lot less force involved than just normal running at max power."

I was testing the injector on a Mitsubishi 4 cyl years ago by powering and grounding the injector. Injector was fine. I went to start the car. It was hydro locked and wouldn't spin over. Once I realized what I had done, I pulled the plugs and pumped out the excess gas, but it was too late. Once started, there was a sickening rod knock from the rod that bent trying to compress the gas. A complete tear down was in order. Lesson learned. You got lucky Randall! The Stag engine was stronger than the Lucas starter.
 
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