• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Looking for the improved TR3 steering box cover

prb51

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Gents,
Some vendors no longer carry the improved (spring loaded) steering box cover for the TR3.
I can't seem to find one. Who carries them now a days?
 
I got mine from Revington. It got to me pretty quickly, even though it came across the pond.
 
Thanks,
I've emailed Herman but can't find them listed stateside on the other sites.
Pat
 
How does this cover work and what does it do? I'm about to tear down inspect reassemble and replace a new used steering box for my 60 3-a.
 
The 'improved' top looks the same as the original from the top but the bolt that puts pressure on the steering arm head is spring loaded.
As the peg/worm wears it shows some slop in the center/straight position and the spring loaded unit keeps the peg in contact properly.
I've never used one but guys here attest to its effectiveness.
 
prb51 said:
I've never used one but guys here attest to its effectiveness.
Well ... not everyone. IMO the concept is flawed, and one of my local friends 'fixed' his steering by removing the spring-loaded top cover & replacing it with a (properly adjusted) original one.

At the very least it increases steering effort.

Of course, that's just my opinion, and I'm likely in the minority (as usual) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Re: Looking for the improved TR3 steering box cove

I also had bad luck with mine. I used it on a recently rebuilt box, and the spring provided too much pressure. Even with the screw adjusted all the way out, the steering wheel was extremely (unusably) hard to turn with the 'improved' cover on. I fiddled with it for a few days trying to make it work, but in the end I decided it wasn't really designed for use on a box without much wear in it, and so I gave up and went back to the original cover.
 
In the "for what it's worth" department I bought mine from British Frame and Engine. It came with two springs and Ken told me to use the shorter, or weaker spring. Having said all that I have to tell you that I haven't installed it yet :-( Considering what I paid for it, it had better work!

Cheers, Tinkerman
 
Will Do

Tinkerman
 
Sounds like a YMMV situation.

I am very satisfied with mine. Not a cure for a box that really needs rebuilding but did help me. Perhaps it actually works better on a slightly worn cam.

My situation was that a correct adjustment at straight-ahead gave me what I thought was too tight an adjustment at full locks. Now I can adjust it so it feels good lock-to-lock... steering effort is just fine and the car doesn't want to wander.

I can't parallel park using just my little finger but it is not that grab-an-armload-of-wheel and tug either.
 
My real problem is the only TR3 I've driven is the one I own so I have no comparative anaylisis. Mine feels fine at speed, doesn't wander etc but is a hand full parking etc...kind of like pain, on a scale of 1 to 10...Some of this is the radials stronger adhesion but I don't know if mine is good, bad, indif as compared to the original.
I thought the box cover might assist in the slow speed moves.
 
Nope. Since the box normally runs with no pre-load on the peg, and the spring adds pre-load, then the spring has to add steering effort (high school physics, friction is proportional to normal force). It may not add very much (depending on how stiff the spring is and how far it's compressed), but it cannot ever make steering easier.

In theory, it can remove on-center play with a significantly worn worm. That's probably worthwhile, if your worm is worn enough to make on-center play a problem. But I've driven an old, worn-out box for so long that a bit of play at center just seems normal to me, and it's never been a problem otherwise as none of my TRs have tended to wander as long as the road surface was reasonable. (Once drove over 20 miles on the Beeline highway without touching the steering wheel.)

And since new worms are now available, I would think that would be a better alternative.

I probably couldn't parallel park with just my little finger (never tried that), but I could with one hand, even with wide, sticky, steel radials.

Of course, as Geo says, YMMV. NFI as well.
 
Ken may have found another supplier but for a while he was marketing the ones made by Herman.

I bought one directly from Protek in UK back in 1992, but he now has a distributor in Roanoke, Va. He might want to talk you into buying their rack and pinion conversion. Mine looks lie this. When I got it, I measured it all and my neighbour who has a lathe made one for a friend from my sketches.

Don:- 58tr3a AT videotron DOT ca
 

Attachments

  • 8407.jpg
    8407.jpg
    64.7 KB · Views: 140
Don,

Does your R&P require that you no longer have the original control head in the steering wheel?
 
I don't have a rack and pinion set-up. It is all original as shown in the photo - except for the spring-loaded adjusting peg you can see. Here's another view.
 

Attachments

  • 8423.jpg
    8423.jpg
    52.8 KB · Views: 140
Sorry about that Don, I crossed read a couple of posts and confused your purchase of a spring loaded peg with someone else's R&P.
 
Back
Top