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Looking for an Austin Healey

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In California you can use a black plate on any car older than 1963. You must supply the plate and it must be unregistered so you can register it in yur name.If your car is newer than 63 you can keep the black plate if it was original to the car. I've been trying to use black plates on my 64. No go. They say it must be reflective. I've done the rounds with the politicians and the head of the DMV here and they won't budge.
So, either it is an original and therefore dry climate car or someone went to the trouble to get a black plate registered since it is a 60.
I have heard of black plates put on a car just to make a sale only to find out it was never registered in California.
Hey, to me a California car means look for bondo the way they drive here.
 
I hope I am not wearing out my welcome but any thoughts on the following EBAY cars?
1966 Austin Healey : 3000 MKIII BJ8 Item number: 4599527036

1967 Austin Healey : MKIII 3000 BJ8 Item number: 4600949328

I am going to Orlando next week and was considering stopping in Miami
S Carolina would be a little harder.

I picked up the Hemmings Motor News and thought I would look at it this weekend.
 
sjpcpa, I would take a look at the 1967 car in miami it appears to be the better of the two. However, I think either car is going to be pricy. INMOP the NC car is allready over the top.---Fwiw-Keoke
 
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That is not a problem T.H. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif, you can have a set made up in the parking lot at Farmer's Market in the Fairfax district.----Keoke-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

T.H., That seller has additional cars on E-Bay all of which do not include Vin Numbers?.
 
On the SC car, number 036;

"and some light popping on the right side dogleg. The body is absolutely solid with only a small area of rust worth mentioning at the leading edge of the drivers floor."
Translation - Any rust that shows or pops the paint is only the tip of the iceberg.

"although I’m not currently certain about the overdrive."
Translation - The OD doesn't work. A common explanation is "probably a loose wire"

"with some pitting on the upper grille surround and rear bumper."
Translation - The chrome is pretty bad.

"The steering wheel and dash varnish are both showing their “Healey age”"
Translation - They need replacement or refinishing.

"trim, door panels and dash pad are all in very good and serviceable condition."
Translation - the interior is pretty shabby.

"The wire wheels and tires are presentable with tires having like new tread."
Translation - The tires are old & age hardened & unsafe to drive on.

You just can't tell the real condition of a car from pics. Certainly not from descriptions.
D
 
DAVE ! I said the OTTER one seemed like the better car.--Keoke-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Oh God! Not the otter switch again! AAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGu
 
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Well Guys, how about # 4599510175 time is a bit short now and its an East coast car,but seems to be in fairly good nick---Keoke.- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

Greg, I did not mention no switch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Sorry for the earlier outburst. I was in the clutches of Purple Haze. A drink I was introduced to on the island of Kauai. Hot Sake and Chambord, about 50/50 mix. Ummm Ummm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 
I hope I'm not out of line here,but pre '63 Calif.plates
were Gold w/Black letters.You can register a period vehicle
if you have a matching pair of (Gold/Black) plates,& are not registered to any vehicle.
So far,you cannot register Black/Gold platesthe same way.
I have a brand new set of Black/Gold plates that I can't use,except for show.Pity.
You also can't use the Black/gold plates unless the car is currently registered,or on a Non-Operational status.
If you buy a car with Black/Gold plates that the registation has expired on,they want you to turn in the old plate(s),& get new ones.
A few years back,it went all the way to Governer Davis,
who veto'd it.He said something like "Criminals will use these involved in crimes".

- Doug
 
The much earlier were gold with black letters. The black plates were used until 69. I also have a near mint set of black plates that are last registered since 74. They won't let me use them. I've got letters form several senators and assembly men and even one from the head of the DMV. All agree that it has no finantial impact and may even raise money as a personalised plate but the DMV guy wants all non reflective plates gone. Kind of stupid when they don't enforce the plate covers that prevent the cameras from catching the red light runners. I've been working on this for three years. Probably won't happen until we get a new DMV head guy. He actually wants all old cars (pre-smog)off the road.
I've been thinking of contacting Jay Leno to put pressure on them. He stopped the smog thing here. Maybe we Californian with collectors can ban together and send a petition. There are a lot of us if you include all classics. Sorry, this should be a seperate post.
 
What is a reasonable expectation as to how much I should spend on a BJ8? Mark II? Mark I? Which car do you prefer and why? From what I have read the major advantage to the BJ8 is potential value down the road. The easier top, wood dash etc do not seem to be a big issue as far as the fun factor goes. Thoughts?
 
In my opinion, there is not one model that is better. They are all fabulious and get respect every where. In spite of what you are told by the seller, they all need tlc. Figure 3 to 5k to get her the way YOU want. Soon you probably won't see a price difference. They are all rare. I have a BJ8 but love the 100's perhaps a little more. 20k would be the average for a BJ8 that is a good driver needing nothing major with no rust. I paid 22k a few years ago and put about 5 more with books, ramps and jacks, new wheels and tires, interior, steering box rebuiding, ss exhaust and headers, rear seals, renewing rubber and glass, many tools, spares, etc. I still feel I got a good deal on a great car (probably worth 32+k today). You stop thinking about the money and start looking for something to go wrong so you can trouble shoot and fix. Its also about the people with Healeys! This cannot be discribed to an outsider. Its almost a life style you get that comes with the cars.
Buy the BEST car (regardless of price)or you may get upsidedown in rebuilding (domino effect). Pay more up front and much less later.
 
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T.H. & All, Requested VIN N0 seller says; "he is at home all title data is in his safe at the office-call me on monday and I will give it to you". Dave, you better provide an interpretion for this this one too!---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Keoke
Is this what the Miami Healey said? If the car is original, then is it not going to need body work after 40 years? Seems like I would be better spending more for something that has been restored recently.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Another question. What are your thoughts on the Tri-Carbs?

[/ QUOTE ]

Prized by some for... well, their novelty value I guess (and rareness in the case of the BN7 tri-carb; only 355 made), they offer no appreciable increase in performance and present you with greater challenges (tuning) and expenses (3x costs instead of 2x).

My bottom line: Avoid tri-carbs. (I'm SURE that tri-carb owners will disgaree!) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
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