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TR6 looking for a TR6

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Woodie

Woodie

Jedi Warrior
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Well my foray into british cars has taken me from a 1980 Spitfire to a 1970 Midget. Both were fun, and sorry to say I think I liked the Midget better, except as I get older and the girth gets larger, i found it more difficult to to get in and out of. Well with both cars gone, I will start my research and shopping with the hopes of buying a TR6 in the spring. (gives me lots of time to read and ask questions)

I bought the Spit cause I found it close to home and it was affordable, and the Midget was an $800 put it together project, that when sold netted me over $4000.

I have however lusted over a TR6 since I was `16 yrs old (and I am now 54). So now I would like to ask you the experts about the preferred yr, how much of a problem are thrust washers really, is overdrive necessary, how does the drive compare to the previous two cars, any preference over the original carbs or updates to webers.
I guess anything you can share with me on the car that I hope to buy.

Thanks

Woodie
 
Hey Woodie. I won't get into the best year, but I can tell you that the thrust washers don't have to be a big deal. When I replaced mine I had a little over 100,000 miles on the engine and they were still in spec, but since I was replacing rod and main bearings at the time, why not ?
If the car has ZS carbs, keep them.
Biggest thing to avoid, in my book is RUST, either concealed by bondo, paint or undercoating.
A well tuned TR6 is fast and nimble. Stock seats, well they are OK and the cockpit may not be as spacious as you'd think it would be, but there's plenty of leg room for a 6 footer.
The exhaust note is killer.
I have one with OD and one with 4 speed; and this is personal, but on country roads, I don't use the OD. I like the torque in 3rd and 4th in the curves.
I hope you find a good one.
 
There's a practically new TR6 in Puerto Rico that can be had for the right price. :laugh: <inside story here in BCF land>
 
Hi Woodie,

Regarding the year....it depends on your preference.....Pre 74 6's didn't have the rubber overriders...however you can remove the overriders if you find a car in good condition....

One other thing you may want to consider...seats. I have had and 72 6 and now own a 73 6...I liked the seats in the 72 much better personally. I think that the best "stock" seats as far as comfort are the 69's. Having said that, there are options out there for seat swaps if you are into modifications.

Most important thing is condition. Specifically, the chassis in my mind will be the most important thing to look at. There are critical points to look at when buying a 6. You might want to pick up some literature/buying guides or do some surfing on the net (as I am sure that you have done allready)

Regarding OD. I am a big fan of it. My first one didn't have it, this one does. Being from Ottawa, you will spend some time on the Highways getting to where you want to go....it will be invaluable for this. As PB says, not so much required for country or back road driving and I couldn't agree more. FYI, pre 73 OD's are A type (stock) and have OD on 2/3/4. 73 and up are J type OD and have OD on 3/4....just thought I would mention it.

Last, I would highly recommend joining a local club. The OVTC is a great club with some great members that I have had the pleasure of meeting. There website is https://www.ovtc.net/

Good luck in your search.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Regarding overdrive, you don't really need it even for long distance highway cruising. It is a nice to have however, but don't let lack of overdrive keep you away from getting an otherwise nice car. If you really want one it can be added on later.
 
Ditto on the condition, with an eye on lack of rust.

As for everything else, how do you plan to use her? That will help determine the specifics of equipment and tune.
 
As I write my comments, you need to know I am writing from the standpoint of someone that has depended a great deal on help from others on the forum.

I agree with all of the comments on body condition. A little bit of rust can result in thousands of dollars and a lot of down time. This isn't the best examle since it has unibody construction, but I recently finished restoring the body on a Bugeye and soon learned just how much money it took to replace "surface rust". When I sandblasted the body I realized that what ever rust I could observe, I could just multiply it by ten on the actual rust. I had to buy a mig welder and learn how to use it. After welding sheet metal, I can really appreciate why body work is so expensive. Some of the work I had to have someone else do because I knew I couldn't do it to my satisfaction. I look at people that do body work more as artists at this point. I am embarrassed to say it took me 20 years to restore that car. I learned from this. I changed my tactics. I wanted to have fun driving my car while I restored it. I bought a 69 TR6 with virtually no rust. Most of the panels were easy to observe for rust and damage. Take your time to crawl around and do this. Don't let the seller tell you the "surface rust" is no big deal. Find a car with the best body you can afford. I don't want to offend anyone, but I will break ranks and say that I think a 69 is your best bet. Admittedly I chose a 69 for personal reasons (I owned one when I met my wife 32 years ago), but I still feel it is your best bet. Why a 69? The more bells and whistles there are on this car, the more parts and trouble you will have to deal with. I like to just drive. For instance, look at a moss catalog and just compare the smog parts. It becomes increasingly more complcated each year. Overdrive? Just one more thing you might have to fix. So, again, it will all depend on why you want your TR6. My TR6 is my daily therapy.
 
Not sure I totally agree on the O/D comment, once set up they rarely go bad and it will make a significant difference on using the car on the highway or over a long haul.
 
Look for rust on the frame. The pumpkin mounts tend to break loose, so listen for a clunk when you drive it.
 
ichthos said:
Why a 69? The more bells and whistles there are on this car, the more parts and trouble you will have to deal with.
Click to expand...

Not intended to flame your choice Kevin but if you chose a year based on how little emissions equipment there is... then 1972 is by far the easiest to deal with. According to the Moss diagrams... the 1972 model has the simplest crankcase breather/carbon canister hook up and it only has vacuum retard on the distributor which can simply be plugged and those vacuum lines removed entirely. Even the evaporative loss system was super simple from 1972-1976.

But I am biased torwards the 1972 model. :driving: :whistle:
 
swift6 said:
and it only has vacuum retard on the distributor which
Click to expand...
... means it burns more fuel while cruising.
 
where in Ottawa are you. I am in Orleans. I know it is not a TR6 but I have a TR4A you are welcome to look at if it helps make up your mind. Just make it clear to my wife you are not thinking of buying the car because she would love for me to sell it.
 
TR3driver said:
swift6 said:
and it only has vacuum retard on the distributor which
Click to expand...
... means it burns more fuel while cruising.
Click to expand...

I hear ya, but if I were concerned about mpg I wouldn't be running Triple Strombergs with a GP3 camshaft either. :driving:
 
Adrio said:
...I have a TR4A you are welcome to look at if it helps make up your mind. Just make it clear to my wife you are not thinking of buying the car because she would love for me to sell it.
Click to expand...

When will you not be at home?
Will your wife be there?
Is her name on the title?

Seriously, your offer is a very good idea if Woodie has not been in a TR6. Would give a darn close feel for fit and ride (if it's an IRS 4A) -- might even convert him to a TRactor fan.
 
I made contact and will be heading over next week. TR4 will most likely be way more than a TR6.....but ya never know.

I am researching now...hoping to buy next yr.

Biggest issue is most cars are in the USA and getting them into Canada is my biggest concern...anybody with knowledge of this???
 
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