Here is an artical that I've kept for a long time and don't remember where I got it from but it's 15+ pages long. Here is 1 page out of it that Bret Kiser's research and experience. I cam post the entire 15 pages but it is very long but very informative. This page 7 is his experience with the Magic clutch and what most of the artical is about is reusing or rebuilding original Laycock and B&B pressure plates.
To Laycock or not to Laycock??
Trials & Tribulations of TR6 Clutches
Brent Kiser
BSME, Purdue University, 1980
Page 7 of 15
June 2000
Original Borg & Beck Cover Side Original Borg & Beck Plate Side
It became obvious at first glance that the original and aftermarket Borg
& Beck pressure plates are not even
close to the same design. The original Borg & Beck is what I call a “Pin
Design” pivot point versus a “Bent
Finger” pivot point.
Original Borg & Beck Aftermarket Borg & Beck
As you can see in the pictures, there is a great difference between the
original and aftermarket units. It is no
wonder that people have been telling me their original Borg & Beck work
great and I have claimed the Borg
& Beck does not work. We were talking about two different designs!!
Since discovering this difference, I have installed over six rebuilt
original Borg & Beck pressure plates and
have not had any problems. I strongly recommend the rebuilt original Borg
& Beck pressure plate.
The “Magic Clutch Kit”
One day I decided to replace my good old original Laycock pressure plate
since it was 30 years old. Besides,
there is not much to do during the winters here in Minnesota and I wanted
to do something with my car.
What a big mistake!
I tried one of the “Magic Clutch Kits” with a Sachs pressure plate, Borg
& Beck disk and a Toyota release
bearing. It had the same problems as the aftermarket Borg & Beck!!! It
had an overly stiff feel and when
engaging the clutch, the pedal sticking returned. In addition to the
pressure plate problem, a new problem
occurred. The Toyota “heavy duty” bearing “squealed” during the initial
engagement of the clutch. The car
was driven this way until I could find a NOS Laycock clutch assembly and
bearing.
In addition to my own problems with the Sachs pressure plate, I have
replaced a Sachs pressure plate in
another car with an original rebuilt Borg & Beck pressure plate due to
excessive pedal force and the car
could not be shifted.
Pivot Pins Pivot Fingers
To Laycock or not to Laycock??
Trials & Tribulations of TR6 Clutches
Brent Kiser
BSME, Purdue University, 1980
Page 8 of 15
June 2000
When you look at the Sachs pressure plate you will see it is like the
original Borg & Beck design with the pin
type pivot point.
“The Magic Clutch”
Sachs Cover Side Sachs Plate Side
Sachs “Pin Type” Pivot
The design of the Sachs is the better than the aftermarket Borg & Beck it
still has too strong of spring. I
cannot recommend the Sachs unit.
To Laycock or not to Laycock??
Trials & Tribulations of TR6 Clutches
Brent Kiser
BSME, Purdue University, 1980
Page 9 of 15
June 2000
Magic Clutch Kit Release Bearing
When the Toyota bearing was removed from my car the cause of a squealing
which occurred when the clutch
was initially engaged became obvious. It was caused by the contact
between the bearing and pressure plate.
Both parts showed excessive wear for having only a couple of thousand
miles. I noticed the original bearing
was a SHIELDED bearing the Toyota bearing was a SEALED unit. The
additional friction drag of the seal
did not allow the bearing to turn with the pressure plate when the clutch
was engaged. Therefore, when
disengaging the clutch, the bearing had to be sped up to match the speed
of the pressure plate. This
differential speed caused the squeal and excessive wear.
By pure luck, I found a NOS Laycock clutch assembly and it is now in my
car and has well over 10m miles
on it. I drove the car to Colorado from Minnesota for the 2001 VTR
convention with the Laycock assembly.
It still works beautifully, is smooth with a light pedal feel and has
NEVER slipped even in the mountains of
Colorado.