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Looking at an MG

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100DashSix

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Hello, first of all. I've recently wandered in from the Healey section of this forum and have a few questions for the knowledgeable MG people here. (And I hope that doesn't attach some kind of stigma to my post /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif)

I've been looking at 70's MGBs, and hope to find something that's reliable enough to be a daily driver. I've come across a '74 MGB for $6k with a rebuilt engine (500 miles since rebuild) that sounds in good condition. I'll ask the usual questions (rust, previous miles, previous owners) but would like to know if I can expect a daily driver for that price.

Any other advice on finding an MG is of course appreciated!
 
Cross-marque posters aren't a bad thing, welcome!

IMHO MGB's are THE best LBC to pick as a daily. Stout, reliable cars with parts availability. Keep up with the PM and pay attention when it "talks" to you, it should be a very reliable commuter... and FUN to boot. If the rest of the car is sound, the $6K would be fair. Rockers/sills and lower fender areas are the places to inspect well. Floorpans too.

Good luck and keep us up on the decision.
 
I bought Emma ('75) for $4000 and you see her in the picture. Easily you can find a good-running, good-looking MGB for $6000.

Take your magnet along, ask if he's got maintenance records and take her for a long drive.
 
I am always wary of very low mileage rebuilt engines on cars that are for sale. Does the seller have any confidence in the rebuild? Is there a warranty that can transfer to the new owner (depending on who rebuilt the engine, probably not)? Is the majority of that cost to try and re-coup the cost of the engine rebuild and the rest of the car is actually a $500 car?

Brings lots of questions to mind for me.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Thanks for all the quick replies! Concerning the engine rebuild, it's from a "professional MG mechanic," but I'll find out what exactly that means. (I imagine better than a home job, though.)

As for checking the quality of the metal, how much rust is too much for that price? If the paint has bubbles and small cancer spots in it, is that an overly bad sign? (It's listed as original paint.)

I'm a bit surprised that MGs seem so cheap, but MG owners are probably just as surprised by Healey prices!
 
Yup, those Healey prices floor me! You can get 2 MGs for what a Healey'll cost ya!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Welcome to the dark side! The nice thing about the British Car Forum is that anyone is encouraged to post anywhere on the other boards, even though they rarely.

As for the MGB, even the rubber-bumper cars are starting to appreciate in value now, according to Classic Motorsports magazine. Cars that sold for 3 to 6 thousand just over a year ago are now fetching 7 to 10 (their figures, not mine). $4K is not too low, but as Swift suggested, it raises a number of questions.

If the paint is original then any blemishes should be apparent. The "dogleg" areas on either side (exterior panel behind the doors) that extend from the rocker panel at the rear up into the rear wing have a tendency to rust, even in cars that have no rust anywhere else (mine was like that), so look for localised repairs there, in addition to the other areas that were mentioned. I'll second the magnet suggestion. In answer to your question, any easily-noticable rust is probably too much for the price. Original paint is only a good thing then it and the metal beneath are in good shape.
 
Oh, and a mirror. Bigger the better, with a handle.
 
6K for a daily driver is a fair price, IMO. I obtained mine (in my sig) for less than a grand. My car needed a new clutch line and slave cylinder to make it driveable. However, part of the reason I got my car so cheap was the registration was 2 years over due, and I had to foot the bill to get it to pass Kalifornia emissions in order to register it.

For 6K I'd look for one of the early 70's cars (pre 74 1/2) that have chrome bumpers stock. Mainly because those have the better twin SU carburetor setup, while the late 70's cars have a single ZS carburetor setup. The ZS equipped cars seem to be a little anemic compared to the twin SU cars... just ask Jaybird... she very recently changed the carburetion on her red MGB... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
For $6K, I woudn't want to see any bubbles in the doglegs or lower front fenders.
 
Rockers are always a big deal with rust. It ususally starts from the inside out. Also the inner wheel arch support is a good place for check for rust. Just adding my 2 cents worth

Hugh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Again, thanks for the answers, but some of them raise more questions /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

Can someone fill me in on what I should expect in terms of overdrive (and transmission)? Is there an indication that it might need servicing? (If OD doesn't engage quickly, perhaps.)

I now have a good idea where to look for rust, and expect that for 6k there really shouldn't be much at all.
 
For $6K - any rust is too much rust!
 
For $6K you betcha! The mechanics are the easiest to fix so a rebuilt engine is worth nothing if the car's full of rust!
 
I bought this car for 1700 bucks last year. I added the wheels and had the suspension redone, fogs, misc. things, but nothing to the motor or trans. I bought it off ebay, and for some reason no one else was bidding on it. I went and picked it up and drove it 3 hrs. into my garage. It starts all the time, runs good and has little to no rust. I plan on a rebuild, probably around 1.5 to 2K, and have put about 2K into it with what I've done. I guess what I'm saying is its good to look around, sometimes a good deal pops up. I hope that these cars are appreciating and I've always thought they were worth more than they usually sell for, but at the same time I've always benefitted from their low cost at the front end.

PC300111.jpg
 
Dan, I would suspect that you can get a very nice "B" daily
driver for 6K. As mentioned in all the above posts, they are out there, waiting. As with anything else, sometimes it's better to shop than jump on the first example, and regret it later. Do not ask me about doing this.
Just like the Healey, bodywork can be expensive to have done. On the other hand, if you can do the work competently yourself, it becomes less of an issue.
Maybe I'll find you a nice "B" and trade it for the 100-6. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jeff
 
A Healey trade?? You speak blasphemy, Bugeye!

The reason I'm so interested in this car is that, so far, the majority of MGs I've seen are more expensive and not as nice; this one is 1974 but has the chrome bumper, and the price--when I first saw it--surprised me, compared to what I had been seeing during all my other searches.

I'm getting more and more involved in working on my Healey, but am far from having a solid working knowledge of old car repair.

And MattMack, that looks like one fine vehicle.
 
Dan, if you're comfortable with the cars condition and price, I'd say go for it.
How about a Bugeye or two for the 100-6? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jeff
 
If I'm not mistaken a chrome bumpered 74 should also have dual SUs under the bonnet, which is a desireable feature. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Take it out for a spin and see how well it runs... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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