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Look at these release bearings [pix]

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58Custom

58Custom

Jedi Warrior
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What are they for? Both are from a ribcase. The taller one came from my 1275.

to1.jpg


to2.jpg
 
They look like clutch throw out bearings to me. What exactly are you asking or looking for?
 
Looks like either would work as their both the same distance from the bearing surface to the fork ears. The one is just made with a thinner casting.
 
jlaird said:
Looks like either would work as their both the same distance from the bearing surface to the fork ears. The one is just made with a thinner casting.
Click to expand...

No, Jack, one is taller. That is the point of the second pix. See how it is taller?

The RB that I got with the 1275 & ribcase that I pulled from the junkyrd recently looks like the shorter one. That engine & trans came with a new, unused clutch set. I used that set with the trans I rebuilt yesterday. Today I pulled my engine & trans, swapped over the clutch parts, attached the rebuilt trans, installed it all and NO PEDAL. I pull the RB from my old trans and it is different than that extra and the one now in my car.

I was hoping that those who know could run down for me the different RBs and could ID the taller and shorter ones in the pix. It helps everyone to know the different variations of parts before they go doing something like I did.

Now I have to do it all again.
 
I think the thick one is correct. I have a thin one in at the moment that came with a Quinton-Hazel kit and have been unhappy with it as well. I have a new thick one on the bench that goes in on next engine pull.

I think the thin one is causing my pedal to go almost to the floor when shifting at high rpm.

However, in your case I would think the thin one would need less throw from the slave cylinder.
 
jlaird said:
I think the thick one is correct. I have a thin one in at the moment that came with a Quinton-Hazel kit and have been unhappy with it as well. I have a new thick one on the bench that goes in on next engine pull.

I think the thin one is causing my pedal to go almost to the floor when shifting at high rpm.

However, in your case I would think the thin one would need less throw from the slave cylinder.
Click to expand...

"thick-thin" is not the issue. The distance from the face to the centerline of the pivots is the difference and that difference is clear as day in the second pix.
 
I agree of course and was just being lazy with my typeing as the thin and thick is so obvious.
 
Would changing the length of the slave pushrod help compensate?
 
Yes it does in most cases. Give it a try. A 7/16 nut in the slave cylinder where the pushrod fits works well for a bit of an extension.
 
I did it to mine after gearbox swap. Not sure why I had to as I put the same clutch parts back in but a nut behind the pushrod helped get things feeling proper.
 
jlaird said:
Yes it does in most cases. Give it a try. A 7/16 nut in the slave cylinder where the pushrod fits works well for a bit of an extension.
Click to expand...

No way! This would be a bit easier than pulling the engine again. An extension is what would be needed to make up the difference in the travel between the two types of RB. Now, there is the diff added by the lever ratio, but this idea, sliced various ways by the nuts I find in my nut cans could work. It would only take a few minutes, and the result would be quickly determined. Jvandyke and Jack, I will report back.
 
Oh, just thinking. The earlier engines used a thinner engine plate. I'll bet the diff in the two RBs is to compensate for the different engine plates.
 
spritenut said:
One is from a 1098, the other is from a 1275.

948 1/2" from center of peg to face of carbon
1098 3/4"
1275 .970"
Click to expand...

<span style="font-size: 14pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">spritenut Brings The Joy! </span> </span>I will note this in my manuals. Thanks!
 
OK. This evening I experimented with various pieces of hardware until I found an extension that was long enough and stable. I used a 3/4" long 3/8-24 hex sleeve of some sort from some darn thing and used a short 1/4-20 bolt at the end. The bolt is the extension, the sleeve fits over both the bolt at one end and the pushrod at the other to keep everything aligned. It worked! Peace at last.

The rebuilt trans shifts muuuuch better than the old one. Second to third shifts do not include running into first. First is much noisier than the old trans, but that's OK. If it gets too annoying, I'll just have to order some more parts from Tony and rebuild one of the two other trans I have here. You know, at the beginning of April 2008 I didn't have one single MG part. Now my stash is crowding out the Ford stuff!
 
Awesome! Glad it worked. Better then pulling the motor again.
 
yep, Frank did it again. Great info.
 
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